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Old 09-19-2009, 11:51 PM
coltgrabber coltgrabber is offline
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Default Hard to Open Cylinder

I have a Mod. 29-2 that has a cylinder that is difficult to open. It takes a bit of maneuvering but it will open. I haven't fired it since I acquired it. Everything else works fine. What is my problem?
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Old 09-19-2009, 11:58 PM
Treeman Treeman is offline
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Perhaps a bent ejector rod. Open it up and watch the ejector as you slowly rotate the cylinder.
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Old 09-20-2009, 12:07 AM
yaktamer yaktamer is offline
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Agreed. I was having the same problem with a 681. The rod was bent just enough to cause ocassional binding, but wasn't really obvious.
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:41 AM
john traveler john traveler is offline
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When a revolver developes excessive endshake, the clearance between the end of the ejector rod and the forward locking bolt changes, often enough to make the tip of the locking bolt snag on the end of the ejector rod.

When you press and hold the cylinder release, check the end of the ejector rob as you open the cylinder. Is the end of the inner extractor pin flush with the end of the ejector rod? If not, those few thousandths of an inch below flush may be enough to snag the tip of the locking bolt, making for hard opening.

The fix is to correct the excessive endshake and/or refit the end of the extractor rod.
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:14 AM
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Like John says, but another thought, Did it unscrew?
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Old 09-20-2009, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 500 Magnum Nut View Post
Like John says, but another thought, Did it unscrew?
Had that problem with my 360J just the other day. I had noticed it feeling like the cylinder might have been hanging up a bit and while fiddling with it, opening and closing it several times, the problem got progressively worse until it got stuck and felt like it was going to stay that way. I got it open one last time and found that the ejector rod had unscrewed to the point that it was hanging up. Luckily I hadn't bent it. I screwed it back in tight and now it's fine. Of course it took me a minute to figure out that the threads were reversed!
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Old 09-20-2009, 11:02 AM
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Thanks...I'll try that and let you know.
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Old 09-20-2009, 01:25 PM
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One other thing to check is if you have had the side plate off. If you mixed up the front screw and the middle screw it could be the cause. The front screw holds the cylinder crane from sliding out of the frame. The front screw is fitted, and if you put the center screw in it may be too long causing it to bind the crane. Swap the screws and it will be fixed (if that is the problem).
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Old 09-20-2009, 03:31 PM
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The cylinder screw had almost unscrewed itself. Thanks to all who answered. That's the first time I have ever had that happen and I carried a Smith & Wesson revolver for almost 9 years. I went ahead and cleaned and re-oiled everything and it now works perfectly. Thanks again!
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:13 PM
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I also have a Smith 29-2 with same issue of hard to open cylinder. With this one it seems to make it easier if you push the cylinder rearward as you perform the opening cylinder attempt. I have checked the ejector rod for tighten and it is, found no burrs on any obvious area but still requires that slight cylinder push rearward. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as its gettin frustrating at this point. Thanks
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Old 08-01-2017, 09:43 PM
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I always make sure the ejector rod is tight.
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Old 08-01-2017, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
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I always make sure the ejector rod is tight.
That would be the first thing to check.
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Old 08-02-2017, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djenk201 View Post
I also have a Smith 29-2 with same issue of hard to open cylinder. With this one it seems to make it easier if you push the cylinder rearward as you perform the opening cylinder attempt.
You should not be able to push the cylinder rearward ideally. Sounds like your 29-2 has some end shake. IIRC, this causes the center pin to be too far forward & the cylinder latch doesn't have enough range to fully release it.

Mine developed end shake that necessitated adding (2) .002" bearing/shims to eliminate it. The center pin's spring naturally tries to push the cylinder forward, taking up that clearance/gap between the end of the yoke barrel & the cylinder, which is overcome when you push it rearward.

Measure the B-C gap with the cylinder held forward & then with it held rearward. The difference is it's end shake. Anything over .002" should be repaired. (Mine was .004") With it repaired you should barely notice any rearward movement (~.001"). You can buy the bearings/shims at MidwayUSA.

As I recall my 29-2 cylinder was a little hard to open too, like you describe, when I noticed the end shake. Afterwards it's okay.

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Last edited by BLUEDOT37; 08-02-2017 at 02:32 AM. Reason: .
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