When opening the cylinder, the thumb piece hesitates a little before the cylinder opens. When When the revolver is hot, it becomes worse, and gets hard to open.

I noticed that the problem must have something to do with the center pin, as it is hard to depress with an open cylinder, athough everything else appears to function smoothly.

It's an 686 with 11.000 rounds trough it, half of those being full power magnums. I use it often when teaching new members of the shooting club, so it gets some abuse from time to time ...

Any ideas?

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Friedrich: Your gun is telling you that it is in sore need of some TLC by a good S&W "smith". Either the yoke is slightly bent or the extractor rod assembly is. Nothing serious, just the result of a lot of good shooting.

It would be a great time to replace the internal springs with a new Wolfe Spring Kit. Have the timing checked after the corrections are made.
............. Big Cholla

I see. For now the 'smith I trust is working on my M13 3". When he gets that one right, I'll bring him the M686. I just don't like to part with both my .357 at the same time.

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The first thing I would do is remove the yoke assembly, slide off the cylinder, and give it all a detailed cleaning. Be sure to get under the star. Confirm the ejector rod is screwed tight. Check for a bent rod. If all looks OK, lightly lube and reassemble.

If you are not comfortable doing that, it's gunsmith time.

I had that issue once in a Model 57. The problem was a slightly expanded front end of the center pin, which was hanging up inside the ejector rod.

The fix is to disassemble the cylinder/ejector system, pull the center pin out of the ejector rod, and stone off the mushroomed tip to restore consistent diameter.

If the enlarged pin cannot be pulled out of the ejector rod, you will need to put a leather pad in the palm of your hand and push the pin far enough through the front of the ejector rod to expose the peened end. Remove enough out-of-place metal to permit pin removal, then you can finish re-creating proper diameter where it has been enlarged.

While the ejector assembly is apart, of course, clean the pin, springs, and the extractor star to remove any crud. People talk about dirty lockwork, but I have generally found that the extractor system is dirtier than the action of any revolver I have had apart.

Remember that in guns produced after 1960 the ejector rod is attached with a reverse thread. With the cylinder in your left hand, you have to turn the ejector rod clockwise to remove, counterclockwise to tighten.

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David Wilson

I assure you this has been done after almost each shooting session. It is clean! And especially the center pin always gets a drop of CLP ...

Aha, that might very well be my problem too! I'll try to dissemble the cylinder assembly, since I never did that before. Thanks!

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Does the revolver have an excessive amount of "Endshake"?
If so when you pull the revolvers cylinder toward the recoil sheild does it open correctly?
I've fixed this problem before by shiming the yolk with Power Custome "End Shake Bearings" which are .002" shims that fit up inside the cylinder..
Could also be as DC Wilson said, That the end of the ejector rod is not True & it's catching sometimes there..
Check for for & apt play in the cylinder & let us know what you find..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk

No, in fact the tolerances are still tight. I can only find a minuscule burr at the right side of the locking hole in the recoil shield, but it doesn't seem to have any influence on the problem. As I can hardly notice it, I intended not to fiddle with the recoil shield. If I damage a pin or some other part, it can be replaced, the frame would be another mather ...

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[QUOTE=Friedrich;1126272]
I noticed that the problem must have something to do with the center pin, as it is hard to depress with an open cylinder, athough everything else appears to function smoothly.
QUOTE]

Remember when the cylinder is open, the bolt should snap forward, so it should move backwards under finger pressure and as you let go, the internal spring will let it snap forward on it's own. If this is it, I'd remove the bolt in the gun, That is under the side plate and look for something burred or bent. A good cleaning wouldn't be a bad idea either. The Faq's will help you take the gun apart.

If it's the cylinder side, get it apart and look for burrs or bent parts. Straighten the bend stuff and make sure it runs true with no runout. If the cylinder still acts up and won't open smoothly, shorten the rod .01 so it won't hang up. (The hanging up to me acts like an ejector rod that has loosened up or it's too long). Make sure you tighten the ejector rod with tools and use cases in the chambers as you tighten it down.
good luck.

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NRA Benefactor Member

DCWilson's diagnose was dead on. The revolver is cured, of course also thanks to the excellent guidelines in te FAQ, and I'm experiencing the warm feeling getting it repaired by my own hands.

Thanks a bunch guys!

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Si vis pacem para bellum.