My previous post on this subject seem to have gotten lost, probably since I posted them in the wrong forum. I bought a Model 317, 3" several years ago. I love its size, grips and sights and it is the perfect "pocket pistol" for walking in the woods or tree rat hunting, but for the life of me, I don't know why the trigger pull is so terrible. I have tried shooting it, dry firing with caps, but it just won't "break-in"

What do you smithing gurus recommend? I have read a lot of articles on changing springs and etc. but most have contradictory posts. If I can't get it to shoot better, I am going to sell/trade it, which I realy hate to do.

Help Please!

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MEDXAM
DEAD MEN TELL TALES

A few drops of oil on the right places, and swapping springs with something lighter.

There are other things like removing burrs to the insides & stoning critical surfaces.

Any and all areas of removing drag will lighten the trigger pull. This also includes making the cylinder spin easier.

Lots of topics on this, just start taking notes.

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NRA Benefactor Member

This is the internet. Anyone can post information, from knowledgeable people with good info to others with less experience or direct lies.

Read the posts and decide for yourself who you can trust. It's up to you to find the truth.

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NRA Benefactor Member

I'd appreciate a follow up post if you solve the problem. I have the same 317, and you are right, it has the worst trigger pull. Unfortunately, I think some of it is tied to the fact this gun is just too light for me to shoot accurately. My 617, on the other hand, is an entirely different animal.

Good luck and keep us posted.

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You did not mention exactly what you mean by terrible. I am wondering are we talking to hard of trigger pull or rough gritty, not smooth?

FWIW: My 317's trigger pull is smooth but requires a serious amount of force. You combine that with the gun's light weight and it becomes problematic. Double action shooting the 317 for me is out of the question.

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There is a way to fix your problem, sell it to me!

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RUSH IS RIGHT

HERE'S THE FIX:

From Wolff or Brownells, purchase an 8 lb or 8.5 lb J-Frame mainspring and replace the factory 12 lb spring. Don't bother with the rebound slide spring, and don't cut coils. New 8 lb or 8.5 lb springs are inexpensive, and any 8 or 8.5 lb J-Frame spring will work.

To install, make sure the weapon is empty, pop the sideplate (if you are experienced, you don't have to remove the sideplate, just have a flashlight handy), cock the hammer and insert a paperclip into the hole in the lower end of the hammer strut. This holds the spring compressed for removal. Wiggle the strut out of its recesses to remove from the revolver. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES HERE. Compress and control the mainspring and remove the paperclip and slowly release force on the assembly to remove the old 12 lb mainspring. Reassembly is in reverse order.

This fixed the pulls of both of my 317s.

HTH,

Noah

Well I've had a 317 since 97 and rarely shot it, due to the trigger issue. I found a excellent fix for it last week.. I traded it and $125 for a NIB 442-2 (no-lock). I'm much happier now.. Cheers.. Ron

I had a 317 & ordered a Extra Power Mainspring from Wolff that was 9lbs & it was much better than the 12lb & still had 100% ignition with every rimfire ammo I tried threw it..
I also put the #15 rebound spring it when I opened it up for a "Lube Job".. Made quite a difference..
Going TOO LIGHT on the Mainspring will cause failures in the rimfire revolver..
Good Luck!!
Gary/Hk

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WANTED 3" Model 547