Hello,

have these strange corresponding marks on cylinder and frame. On the cylinder they are fife times. Looks as if cylinder gets into contact with frame on shooting. Inspecting the gun I can't verify this. Cylinder is clear of frame, no excessive play to be seen. Looks as if Cylinder can't get into touch with frame at this position.



Thanks for your help.
Fritz

Only thing I can think of is something got stuck there and scratched it. Maybe somebody tried to bend the yoke around and stuck a wedge in it at that point.
The gun can't make that mark by it's self.

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NRA Benefactor Member

If you have that same mark in five locations on the cylinder (near the stop notches), something's seriously wrong. I'd phone S&W and have them send a shipping label, so they can check out the gun (no charge to you). I wouldn't shoot it as is.

How about posting a photo of the recoil shield and the back of the cylinder. Maybe check the frame under the barrel for a crack.

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"I cook too."

Beats me. Is it just on the surface, or does it dig into the metal?

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NRA Life Member

The cylinder shouldn't touch the frame there..
I too would be thinking the yolk, which is aluminum alloy BTW on the Airlites, may be misaligned or bent slightly..
I would be calling S&W for the shipping label..
If you carry this piece for Self Protection nothing is too good for it..
Let us know if the cylinder touches on each cylinder bolt stop & any other things that look amis..
Keep us informed of what S&W does for you on this matter..
GOOD LUCK!
Gary/Hk

Here are some more pictures:



Frame and cylinder are clear from each other. But when I force the cylinder down with my fingers, I nearly - but not totaly - can close the gap. I can imagine that the force of a 357 load will be able to force this completely down.



Thanks for your input,
Fritz

Fritz

Did look at the gun again. For ease of understanding I reference the explode at
SW36

Between the Locking Bolt (5147) and the Center Pin (7062) there is quite a bit of play say 90% of what is needed to unlock the cylinder. The Center Pin Spring (5227) is not very strong. I easily can imagine that under the heavy recoil of a 357 magnum load in this 12oz gun the Center Pin (7062) moves forward against the somewhat weak Center Pin Spring (5227), gaining momentum and pushing the Locking Bolt (5147) that little bit that is lacking to unlock the cylinder forward.

If I push the Center Pin (7062) forward using the Thumbpiece (5613) I easily can get the cylinder in touch with the frame.

Guess that is the catch. Can anyone owning a Scandium Snubby confirm that this is NOT the case with his gun.

BTW, as the tip of the Center Pin (7062) facing the Locking Bolt (5147) looks "worked" on my gun, can anyone tell me how deep the Center Pin (7062) is in the Extractor Rod (5255)? Maybe that someone messed around with that piece because the cylinder was somewhat difficult to close. I am wild guessing ;-)

Thanks,
Fritz

The more and more I think about it, I come to the believe that it is the Center Pin and Lock Bolt which are the culprits.

On maximal protrusion the Center Pin barely touches the Lock Bolt. You nearly can't tell that the both parts are touching each other on unlocking and locking the cylinder. Eyballed about 3 thousands overlapping of the two parts.

The Center Pin recesses into the Extractor Guide about 6 to 7 hundreds of an inch. Center Pin looks as if it has been filed down and shows big marks.

Just to be complete a photo of the Lock Bolt:


Another wild guess:
The initialy rough MIM parts of the Thumb Piece and the opening mechanism lead a customer to return the gun for repair. The gunsmith tried to fix the problem in taking some resistance on the closing by simply filing down the Center Pin. Did not work, customer returned the gun, was refunded and the gunsmith looked for another customer. That is the moment when I enter the picture ;-)

What do you think about that? Can anybody owning a J-Frame compare his gun to mine?

Thanks,
Fritz

The locking bolt should engage the extractor rod. It should be in contact with the center pin. Clearance between the center pin and the locking bolt gives the center pin a "run" at the locking bolt under recoil. When you push the cyl release (and bolt) forward to release the cylinder the bolt should be flush with the face of the recoil shield and the center pin should be flush (or extend minimally beyond) the end of the extractor rod.

Is the locking bolt (in the barrel underlug) butchered or stuck so it doesn't extend properly and engage the extractor rod? The spring preload on the locking bolt helps the center pin stay put under recoil (along with the center pin spring). Has the end of the center pin been shortened (butchered) on the end that engages the recoil shield? Has the center pin spring been clipped/shortened?