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Old 03-05-2010, 11:38 AM
ric426 ric426 is offline
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Remove jeweling without damaging part? Remove jeweling without damaging part? Remove jeweling without damaging part? Remove jeweling without damaging part? Remove jeweling without damaging part?  
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Default Remove jeweling without damaging part?

Is it possible to remove the jeweling from a hammer and trigger without altering the dimension of the parts too much? I just bought a Model 14 based PPC gun that has a jeweled hammer and trigger (and rebound slide and hammer block). The jeweling was done well, but it's too flashy for my tastes. Can the jeweling be polished out on the hammer and trigger without messing up the parts? I won't worry about the jeweling that doesn't show externally.
Since the gun is DAO now I was thinking of getting the hammer bobbed, so that would be a good time to have the hammer and trigger "unjeweled". Would bead blasting be a better solution than polishing?
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:50 AM
sar4937 sar4937 is offline
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Some material would have already been removed during the jeweling, but not much. Someone would probably purchase the jeweled parts for more than the replacements would cost you.
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Old 03-05-2010, 12:31 PM
WR Moore WR Moore is offline
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How about a quick dip in a blue tank? If subdued jeweling doesn't work for you, I'd try to sell them to someone as accessories to a BBQ gun and get new ones-which would need minor deburring/polish to be smooth.
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Old 03-05-2010, 01:13 PM
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jeweling is only "polished in" ( like wax on, wax off...) the part that is exposed ( shows out side the gun, you can polish off), , if below the surface ( hidden inside the frame) leave that be and you will not remove any more material or cause it to change "dimensionally" ( possibly loosen its ride inside the frame).....in fact, the jeweling" aids in the spread of the oils, one of the reasons it was done on rifle bolts for so many years, as well as that "touch" of customize.....
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Old 03-05-2010, 02:21 PM
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I agree with Dant . I would try to live with it and maybe even come to appreciate its functionality and the unique quality it gives your particular weapon . That is the best cheer leading I can come up with . I have a friend who taught himself to jewel and he seemed to jewel everything that would hold still , including several items of mine . I just couldn't deny him the opportunity to share his talent with me .
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:52 PM
ric426 ric426 is offline
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I guess it does make more sense to just leave it be. It's not like I notice it when I'm shooting.
If I do get the hammer bobbed I'll just have the back polished and leave the sides jeweled.
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Old 03-05-2010, 04:57 PM
deanodog deanodog is offline
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Something like this on a K22? I will just live with it.
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Old 03-05-2010, 05:10 PM
2152hq 2152hq is online now
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Polish it off. It's a few 10-thousanths" deep. You're only working on the part visible. Leave the area around the bolster that's inside the frame alone. That'll avoid any fitting issues and you can't see it anyway. I'tll do some good in that it allows lube to gather in the small depressions (it's original intent). I'd leave it alone on any internal parts like the rebound slide.

I'd hand polish it out. Start with something like 800grit backed with a fine file to keep things flat. If needed you may have to back down to 600 and then back up the 800 and then higher grit for more shine if that's what you want. Stay away from a Dremel or a buffer.
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Old 03-05-2010, 09:54 PM
jrm53 jrm53 is offline
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I have done jeweling on rifle bolts it is done with a piece of grit impregnated rubber called briteboy in a small holder in a bridgeport or drill press I doubt if it is .0002 deep it shoud polish out with a piece of 600 grit wet or dry paper. Jeff
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:35 AM
Aussie44 Aussie44 is offline
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Bead blast the parts.


Ken
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Old 03-06-2010, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie44 View Post
Bead blast the parts.


Ken
+1 that's the way to go.
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Old 03-06-2010, 09:23 AM
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Depending on the depth of the original jeweling and the type of glass beading, some of the swirl patterns may still be present after a glass bead blasting but the overall even matt finish will be pleasing.
Glass beads peen the surface,,they're not meant to remove metal.

Certainly is a quick process though you should strip the parts to avoid cramming them full of the dust from the beading process.

Make sure who ever does it understands you want glass bead blast and not to use any sort of grit material blast (sand/garnet,ect) as that will quickly round the edges and ruin the sear notch in one or two blasts.

I'd still go with a hand polish and then if you wanted a matted finish, a fine wire wheel finish done w/oil. Or the glass bead could be done then and no old swirls will show. A couple of different ways to go.

Hand polishing them out shouldn't take much more than a half hour.
The hardest thing in working on those 2 parts is hanging on to them.

Let us know how it comes out.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:08 PM
driver4895 driver4895 is offline
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Default custom parts

Custom trigger job (PPC) and jeweling, Post them for sale, You will get enough for the replacement parts and a new trigger job.
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:37 PM
ric426 ric426 is offline
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Quote:
Custom trigger job (PPC) and jeweling, Post them for sale, You will get enough for the replacement parts and a new trigger job.
Nah, I like the action too much as is to go swapping parts for cosmetic reasons. I'm going to have the hammer bobbed and some other work done in a week or two after the PPC league ends. I'll see what the 'smith recommends then.
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