Bead blasting

wewaslim · #1 03-25-2010, 07:38 AM

I acquired a model 67-1 this week that was used as a "truck gun". Thrown around, carried under the seat, etc., and is scratched and scuffed up. It appears to have been shot very little, and has a good action and lock-up. Does anyone know who would do a bead-blast for a satin finish? I have a 625 that was bead-blasted by a former owner, and it really looks good. Thanks for any information. Bill Jones.

jerseyshoreshot · #2 03-25-2010, 08:01 AM

I feel most comfortable using the manufacturer. Here is a link to Smith & Wesson’s Precision Gunsmithing Site.

Precision Gunsmithing - Smith & Wesson

They list the services offered and the price. I have always been happy with the results.

Good Luck,

JSS

500 Magnum Nut · #3 03-26-2010, 05:45 AM

The gun needs to be fully taken apart, but if you can take your gun apart and have an air compressor it easy to do.
Save yourself a couple hundred bucks and do it yourself.

I rebuilt this old 625 and snapped a picture when I was done. It looks new again. I replaced the sights, frame lug, fixed the timing, turned the barrel, chamfered the charge holes and swapped out the springs. I rebeaded it somewhere in between.

wewaslim · #4 03-26-2010, 06:25 AM

Thanks for the input. I may try that. I also have a 625 model of 1988. One of my favorites. Bill

500 Magnum Nut · #5 03-26-2010, 06:32 AM

I hope the links still work, as this is an older post.
Eastwood is known for their auto restoration tools and supplies.
You need a compressor, a small one is fine as long as you can create 50 psi at the gun.
You need safety goggles.
You need a water filter or trap that will reduce moisture in the air line as you bead blast. If water is mixed with the air, the nozzle will clog.
Eastwood website: Abrasive Blasting - Media, Pressure Blasters, Soda Blasters, Blast Cabinets
Select the Speed Blast Gravity Feed Blaster for 60 bucks.
Thru Brownells they sell the glass beads. DO NOT use sand blast media, it's different.
BROWNELLS : BROWNELLS : GLASS BEADS - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
The 270 is very fine, (this is what I use)
I also redo rifles and this has to be outside because they won't fit inside a cabinet.
When bead blasting you hold the nozzle 6" or so away from the work. You spray it back and forth to create the look you want, then flip the work and continue on the other sides. it's best to remove all the gun sights or tape them up well, because the beads will remove the bluing on the sights.
It's very easy to bead blast, just make sure the part to be blasted is clean, well prepared so no tool marks are seen. Bead blasting won't hide dents or heavy scratches so it's best to polish, sand or file these areas before you blast. After I'm done I wash all the parts with water in the sink and use compressed air to completely dry the parts before assembly.
It's a trial and error approach, but I assure you, you can't screw up bead blasting!

srgvaz · #6 03-26-2010, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 500 Magnum Nut

I hope the links still work, as this is an older post.
Eastwood is known for their auto restoration tools and supplies.
You need a compressor, a small one is fine as long as you can create 50 psi at the gun.
You need safety goggles.
You need a water filter or trap that will reduce moisture in the air line as you bead blast. If water is mixed with the air, the nozzle will clog.
Eastwood website: Abrasive Blasting - Media, Pressure Blasters, Soda Blasters, Blast Cabinets
Select the Speed Blast Gravity Feed Blaster for 60 bucks.
Thru Brownells they sell the glass beads. DO NOT use sand blast media, it's different.
BROWNELLS : BROWNELLS : GLASS BEADS - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools
The 270 is very fine, (this is what I use)
I also redo rifles and this has to be outside because they won't fit inside a cabinet.
When bead blasting you hold the nozzle 6" or so away from the work. You spray it back and forth to create the look you want, then flip the work and continue on the other sides. it's best to remove all the gun sights or tape them up well, because the beads will remove the bluing on the sights.
It's very easy to bead blast, just make sure the part to be blasted is clean, well prepared so no tool marks are seen. Bead blasting won't hide dents or heavy scratches so it's best to polish, sand or file these areas before you blast. After I'm done I wash all the parts with water in the sink and use compressed air to completely dry the parts before assembly.
It's a trial and error approach, but I assure you, you can't screw up bead blasting!

great info.....

500 Magnum Nut · #7 03-26-2010, 07:00 AM

Oh, I almost forgot, find a dust mask too!