I cut down a pair of smooth J-frame stocks, sanded them, etc. I need to choose a product to re-finish them with.

I want something clear, that will NOT darken the wood any more than absolutely necessary. That lets out Tru-Oil and the other usual suspects. Not too excited about tung oil or BLO, either.

The revolver will be pocket-carried, and shot (and cleaned) fairly regularly, so I need something durable. Matte preferred, I'll do gloss if there's no other choice.

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated...

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Since you don't like a nice oil finish then this is the next best:

Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane
A clear finish topcoat that offers long-lasting protection on both finished and unfinished wood.

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NRA Benefactor Member

I was thinking about that stuff... but wonder how well it will hold up to solvent (Hoppe's #9). I've used it as a clear coat on decals on RC model aircraft, and the nitromethane in the fuel exhaust residue degrades it after a while.

I DO like an oil finish; I just don't want to darken the wood.

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What type of wood are they?

If they are an oily dense exotic like rosewood or Cocobola you can just soak them in some melted paraffin wax and you're good to go. On other less oily woods such as walnut or zebra wood I have used super glue as a finish. For small pieces like knife scales that will take a lot of abuse super glue works very well, though it's a bit different to work with. Try it on some scrap to see if you like it.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

i use boiled linseed oil rubbed in and let soak in and then lightly buffed.

On other less oily woods such as walnut or zebra wood I have used super glue as a finish. For small pieces like knife scales that will take a lot of abuse super glue works very well, though it's a bit different to work with. Try it on some scrap to see if you like it.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

That's a new one on me.

I have visions of walking around with a stock, super glued to my hand.

Seriously, how do you apply it? It dries so blasted fast, it looks like it would immediately adhere to the applicator.

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NRA Instructor

JohnK, CA comes in three basic consistencies.

The "thin", which is what you are probably familiar with and has the consistency of water, does indeed set up almost instantly.

Then there is "medium", which is more viscous- like pancake syrup- and has a working time of a minute or so. This would be the stuff to use for my application; I know what Smith 357 is talking about, and have done it on other non-gun-related projects. But I don't think I'd want to do it in this particular instance.

You can also get "thick" CA (cyanoacrylate, the technical term for super glue), and it even comes in a gel form.

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Yes the medium thick is what I have used in the past. I applied it buy dipping my finger in a dish of glue and then using my finger to spread it evenly being careful not to let the finger linger and get stuck to the wood. Also the glue fumes are very nasty.

Here is a link to a good tutorial on a how to apply a super glue finish.
Super glue finish build along - Hunt Chat

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

If you mix the linseed oil with paraffin, particularly beeswax, it makes a very durable satin finish on wood. It is commonly used on military walnut stocks.