Got my new (to me) 629-1 today. It's in Very Good shape, but the previous owner buggered the windage screw. I can order them individually from Numrich's, but Midway has what looks like an all-in-one kit. Thy're out of stock at the moment, but I need guidance about which way to go. Is there a difference here between factory parts (Numrich's) and aftermartket (Midway) or is Midway sellign S&W parts in a kit?

I read the FAQ piece about this and I don't understand the concept of crimping the nut. Do I need a special tool (saw one in the photo)? Hope not. In anycase, crimp how?

Finally, I noticed Numrich is sold out of the .146-height blade, but has .126 and .160. Is .146 the factory stock part for a 4" barrel, which my gun has? Thanks.

Prism, I think the parts you need will be described as "factory" from any of the vendors you mentioned. Without seeing what you're looking at, it's impossible to answer that question. Post a link to the product if you have any doubt. Personally, I'd try Brownells, and if you're not sure, call the vendor and ask for a tech. I know Brownells has some folks who really do know their stuff.

As far as the "crimp", I think the better term is "stake". That's what the punch is for, as shown in the FAQ. Stake the nut to the screw to lock it on. Directions for this usually accompany the sight parts.

For the last part about proper sight height, you really need to measure what you have to know what to get. You can get a micrometer pretty cheaply these days, and it comes in pretty handy with guns.

I'd strongly suggest that you get this before attempting any work on your revolver: "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen - MidwayUSA

Costs alot less than busted parts

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

Thanks 2Hawk. Staking is a better word.

Here's the link to Midway's kit.

Smith & Wesson Rear Sight Blade Kit K, L, N-Frame with .146" White Outline Blade, Windage Nut, Screw and Instructions - MidwayUSA

I found this on Brownell's, but it's hard to tell what's in it without a photo. Guess I could call. If it's really the whole assembly (is that possible? the serrated part that screws down onto teh frame with pre-installed windage and elevation screws?), it would be the easiest way to go.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1..._WHITE_OUTLINE

Here's the part on Brownell's:
SMITH & WESSON : Sight Blade Kit, Rear, .146", White Outline (940-191-440) - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Same as Midway, and out of stock as well...;(

Well, at least you know what to call the thing you need, and that's a good start....

I wouldn't get the sight assembly if all I needed was the blade. And, iirc, on the older guns with the round front sight assembly, the mounting holes were not always uniformly drilled. Hopefully, someone else can chime in, but this may be a case where buying the whole assembly could really lead you down a rocky road. And, honestly, if it is just the screw that is bothering you, maybe the factory can help you out with the right parts.

I think maybe seeing if you can get the sight blade kit from the factory might be the next course of action. Or check Numrich's, etc. And phone them up, sometimes a person can find something a computer can't.

You might want to shoot the gun with the loads you plan on using just to confirm the proper height before you order anything; always good to be sure.

Good Luck, and let us know how it shoots!

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

You're a fountain of good advice -- seriously. All I need is the blade and screw. The assembly body (and elevation screw) on mine is mint. Thanks for the Brownell's kit link too.

I was a tad confused by the spring and plunger. I get their function, but do I necessarily need a new one of each? Couldn't hurt, I guess, as cheap as they are. So as I understand it now, I need the nut, windage screw, spring, plunger, and blade.

Will post some photos tomorrow.

My next questions will be about finish. The muzzle has a little holster shine and rather than chase a bright stainless finish all over, I'd like to take the few high spots down to a brushed look. Scotch brite-type pads keep coming up in threads on the subject.

Thanks again 2hawk.

Here's a video from Midway USA that shows him changing a rear sight blade & screw + nut..
He make messing with the small spring & detent look too easy, these parts are so small they can be lost easily..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_sDPh18Z08

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MightShowYouHisSmith&Wesson

A Google search turned this up, and the kit is in stock.

Product: .146 White Outline Rear Sight Blade Kit

Gotta go get the nut spanner from Brownell's and, assuming I'll lose either the spring or plunger, one each of those. About $37 all told.

Thanks for all the help.

Take a punch and peen the nut on the screw. (look at your gun, the nut has a dent on he end) Then the nut won't turn on the screw. You could use a drop of locktite to freeze the screw from turning too...

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NRA Benefactor Member

Thanks 500. What part gets struck by the punch? The nut, or the screw in the nut? Since you mention Locktite, why not just locktite the nut in place and allow the screw to move...?

I bought the staking tool from Brownell's, but I don't have any punches. Guess I could make one from a nail, as another member did; I just need to know which part to whack once everything is in place. ; )

When you put a new nut on the screw, you need a spanner or a tiny screw driver and spin the nut on tight, then back it off 1/4 turn. (the nut is not tight to the base).

Using a punch and hammer flare the nut, so the nut won't move. If it moves the sight can fall apart as the nut falls off. If you don't back off the screw 1/4 turn, before you flare it, the windage screw will not move. So remember to back the nut off...

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NRA Benefactor Member

Just so I'm clear...

The nut has two little notches to aid installation. These notches are for the spanner tips.

The spanner tool holds the nut in place (flush against the left side of the sight assembly) as you insert and turn the windage screw/leaf from the right. The windage screw enters the nut -- still held in place, flush against the left, by the spanner -- and turns freely while you center the leaf in the assembly.

When the leaf is more-or-less centered -- and the nut has been tightened and backed-off 1/4 turn -- you're saying to take a small punch and position it in either of the small notches on the nut and flare the nut by giving the punch a couple of taps? The flaring spreads the nut to hold it, by simple friction, against the inside walls of the sight assembly screw channel, right?

And since the nut is backed off using the spanner, which is a fragile $12 tool, the back-off should be done gently to avoid breaking the spanner tips.

I ask because I only want to do this once. : )

If you call S&W and give them the mod. and barrel length of what gun you are going to change the sight on they will make sure you get the correct kit. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is to make sure when you back the screw out all the way the "teeny, tiny" spring and plunger has the nasty habit of flying out to places unknown never to be seen again. Best recommendation I can give is to put the gun and your hands inside a large clear plastic bag, so when the screw comes out the spring and plunger will be captured by the bag. (There's still one somewhere in my shop). The staking tool can be made from a large nail, grind the tip to a 45 bevel all the way around.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Thanks HR. I knew about the spring and plunger, but I ordered replacements when I bought the parts, just in case.

Prism, the nut is staked to the screw, not the sight channel. It must be able to rotate when the windage screw is turned, allowing the threads of the screw to move the sight blade left or right.

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

This post could be what's confusing. Flare the screw, not the nut.

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Mark