I have a 1943 Victory (38 special) that when the cylinder is in a certain position (on one chamber) take a good push to open.
When it has 4 of the other 5 chambers straight up it opens smooth, the 5th one need a little push, the 6th one take a good push.
I compared it to my 3 other Victorys and my 2 38/200's and they all open really smooth on all chambers.
I looked at the pin (bolt?) that comes forward in the frame to push in the cylinder pin and on the 1943 it seems to not come even with the frame by maybe a 100th of an inch,

But that said, if that is the issue then all chambers should have a problem when I try to swing out the cylinder, I would think.

I tried each chamber maybe a dozen times and it is very consistent. Also a couple times the thumb extracter didn't seem to go all the way back and the hammer wouldn't cock until I pulled it back, but that didn't happen when I snapped the cylinder back up.

Any ideas?

It may be the front end of the ejector rod. The small lock pin under the barrel that enters the end of the ejector rod to lock it up front is pushed out of engagement by the center pin.
If the very end of the ejector rod itself is not faced off perfectly flat and square, the lock pin will catch on a high spot/high surface when trying to push the cylinder open. It will always hang up on the same chamber.
The center pin should push the forward lock pin clear or just flush with the end of the rod. If a small high spot exists, as it rotates around to the extreme right hand side, the pin will hang up on it as you try to open the cylinder. An adjacent chamber may also be effected by it but not as much as the bevel falls away.

Check for a burnished or drag mark on the front face edge of the ejector rod that would indicate it being forced passed the pin.

The pin itself should have a very slight secondary bevel on its edge on that side to assist in pushing it aside in opening. Sometimes they have a sharp edge and that can make the condition worse.