Wierd timing on 10-10.....

[stantheman86]

Long story short, I have a well-used 10-10 that has good carry up on 4 of the chambers, and the other 2 it just locks up as the hammer is reaching it's farthest point going back.

With empty cases in the chambers, it carries up better, and earlier on all 6 chambers.....it's like the case rims "help" the hand carry the cylinder into lockup better.

Anyone else experience this?

It's just one of my "shooter" guns, not anything I rely on for carry, HD and it's a pretty beat up ex-PD gun.

It shoots pretty well, hasn't blown up yet, should I just leave well enough alone and figure if it works, it works and not try to figure out why.......or try to fit a new extractor, etc?

[Alk8944]

Leave it alone, that is pretty much normal. Carry-up is checked by very slightly retarding cylinder rotation while cocking the gun and pulling the trigger all the way back. As long as it carries-up by the time the trigger is all the way back, and while loaded, there isn't anything wrong with it.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by stantheman86

Long story short, I have a well-used 10-10 that has good carry up on 4 of the chambers, and the other 2 it just locks up as the hammer is reaching it's farthest point going back.

With empty cases in the chambers, it carries up better, and earlier on all 6 chambers.....it's like the case rims "help" the hand carry the cylinder into lockup better.

Anyone else experience this?

Carry up should be checked with brass in cylinders because that's how it operates in real life. The newer guns without the small alignment pins rely on the brass to lock the star to the cylinder and get proper carry up.

If it locks when the hammer cocks, it's OK to shoot. There are probably millions of them that would come up a shade short on a slow hammer cock but lock OK under a normal speed pull due to cylinder inertia and those work fine as well.

[chief38]

As long as the cylinder is fully locked up before the hammer falls, you are OK. It's when the hammer falls on a few chambers before lockup, then there is a timing problem. As these parts wear with usage there are several methods to correct this. One is to fit an oversized hand, the other is to send the revolver back to S&W and have a new star wheel put in. As long as you are not getting bullet shaving or out of time hammer drops, I would just shoot it.

chief38

[stantheman86]

Awesome, thanks for all the great info guys

It's good to know that a lot of S&W revolvers rely on the case rims for proper timing, I just thought I had one that was "off".