Problem with my 24-3

Norouge · #1 09-23-2010, 04:47 AM

Hello all.
This is my first post here after lurking around for a while.
I have a model 24-3 with some issues. When using a cylinder/bore guide to control the alignment, I can feel the shoulder on two of the chambers. This, I believe, could be the reason why I get two small groups instead of one, when shooting from the bench.
Do any of you guys know if there is a solution to this problem?
Thanks, Herman.

Gun 4 Fun · #2 09-23-2010, 01:11 PM

It sounds to me like you have two chambers that are slow in timing. It's really hard to be accurate assessing the trouble without seeing it in person, but I have found over the years that it is not uncommon to find a chamber or two that is tad slow, on even new S&W's.
If that's what the trouble is, a good gunsmith can easily remedy that quickly.
If you know what you are doing, you can do it yourself at home. I would suggest the gunsmith thoughin case there are other issues to be addressed.

tennexplorer · #3 09-26-2010, 03:12 PM

I don't think it's a timing issue. I had one of those also. Two chambers were drilled on a slightly different axis from the rest. Although opening up the forcing cone on the barrel may help (not that much), the only real cure is a new cylinder.

scooter123 · #4 09-26-2010, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tennexplorer

I don't think it's a timing issue. I had one of those also. Two chambers were drilled on a slightly different axis from the rest. Although opening up the forcing cone on the barrel may help (not that much), the only real cure is a new cylinder.

I'm inclined to agree with this. One way to test for this is by making sure than the cylinder stop is engaged when checking the alignment. Simply try rocking the cylnder at each position when using your alignment gage. If you've already done that, I would consider sending the gun to S&W for a new cylinder.

BTW, there are two features at work when the cylinder is locked up that effect the bore position. The consistancy of the bores for spacing and the position of the cylinder stop notches in relation to each chamber in the cylinder. Without a custom fixture designed to measure the position of the chambers in relation to the stop notches, measuring this critical aspect of timing borders on not feasable, at a minimum you'll need access to a surface plate, a clamping V block, some gage pins of the correct size, and finally a good height gage. Using this properly and getting a good accurate read on the cylinder will take at least 30 minutes to an hour. Thus my advice for having S&W look into this issue, they have QC fixtures for checking this quickly and may replace your cylinder at their cost.

Norouge · #5 09-29-2010, 06:25 AM

Thanks for answering. I have made sure the cylinder stop is engaged with each chamber, so a new cylinder might be the answer.

Living in Norway could make the shipping difficult, but I love that gun to much to just store it away, which it will if it shoots poorly.

bountyhunter · #6 09-29-2010, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norouge

Thanks for answering. I have made sure the cylinder stop is engaged with each chamber, so a new cylinder might be the answer.

Living in Norway could make the shipping difficult, but I love that gun to much to just store it away, which it will if it shoots poorly.

I actually have seen new SW cylinders for sale at Midways recently (not sure for your model?). You MIGHT be able to drop a new one in without fitting if you use the old extractor with it. Considering the shipping cost and long time for you, it's an option to consider.