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10-31-2010, 02:01 PM
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Model 19-3 Locking Bolt Question
Is the locking bolt supposed to protrude like this?
If not, what is the likely cause, and what's involved in a fix?
Thanks.
Bullseye
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Five screws and 3-1/2 inches.
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10-31-2010, 03:05 PM
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The likely reason for the locking bolt protruding is the other end is not fully engaged in the extractor rod. That is usually caused by a slightly bent extractor rod.
You can check this by watching the locking bolt as you open and close the cylinder. It should snap into the recess in the extractor rod as the cylinder fully closes and locks.
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10-31-2010, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john traveler
The likely reason for the locking bolt protruding is the other end is not fully engaged in the extractor rod. That is usually caused by a slightly bent extractor rod.
You can check this by watching the locking bolt as you open and close the cylinder. It should snap into the recess in the extractor rod as the cylinder fully closes and locks.
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Thank you John! I presume that a factory fix is required. Can the existing nickel extractor rod be straightened, or, does it require replacement? Any idea of the cost?
Best regards,
Bullseye
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Five screws and 3-1/2 inches.
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10-31-2010, 05:14 PM
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This depends on whether or not it protruded when the gun was new! What is critical is the difference in position between seated and with the thumbpiece pushed forward. If it moves forward and then back about 1/16" or a little more when the cylinder is closed everything is normal. If it moves forward and stays there with the cylinder closed there is a problem.
The locking bolt shank length is not a critical dimension and they vary, as does the length of the lug from inside to front and the front contour. I have seen variation all the way from the end of the shank barely protrudes when the thumbpiece is forward, all the way to nearly 1/8" protrusion when the locking bolt is fully seated. Trying to make an evaluation based on a single photo is something that simply cannot be done accurately in this case.
Checking the extractor rod is simple. Swing out the cylinder and watch the end of the rod as you spin the cylinder. If it wobbles it is bent, if it runs true it isn't bent, just that simple. There can be a few thousandths run-out which is allowable, but if it is easily seen it is too much. The rod doesn't need to be replaced, it can be straightened. The problem can also be the extractor collar isn't true and there isn't a problem with the rod itself.
Last edited by Alk8944; 10-31-2010 at 05:20 PM.
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10-31-2010, 05:54 PM
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Thank you Alk8944. This gun is new to me, and I expect it to be delivered on Tuesday. I have a three-day inspection period, so any other advice you might have on checking out this revolver thoroughly will be appreciated.
Bullseye
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Five screws and 3-1/2 inches.
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11-03-2010, 04:28 PM
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The revolver arrived, and per the tests suggested above, it checks out just fine. Thanks again for the tips, guys. Everything else does too, and the finish is better than the photos. I think I got sweet piece for $200 - $250 below market, and I am one happy camper. Range test tomorrow.
Bullseye
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Five screws and 3-1/2 inches.
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