Won't chamber .357 anymore

[SourwoodTom]

Hey guys,

For years I've been shooting an M-28 in our local gun range's IPSC-style Monday night competition.

Here's my problem: I've probably put 3000 rounds of .38 through the gun, with regular cleaning and maintenance. The other day I took it out to a friend's backyard range and we were shooting at pumpkins. I brought along some .357's I'd loaded a few years back and found that they no longer chambered in the gun. They protruded from the recessed cylinder the .1" that is the difference b/w .38 and .357. I tried factory loads with the same results.

What is the best way to open the end of the chambers back up? Upon close inspection, you can see what looks similar to the flash erosion above a forcing cone. I've tried both copper and stainless brushes with every type of bore cleaner I have.

Dremmel with a polishing wheel and rouge?

[BillyWayne]

I would use some Carb and Choke cleaner. That should disolve and loosen up the carbon in the cylinders. Others may have other options that work as well.

[Milton]

Man,that's some BAD build-up!!You may have to soak the cylinder ,face down in some Kroil or even Liquid Wrench and then try to clean it.I use Yamaha Combustion Chamber Cleaner in my revolver to help lift this stuff off.

[s&wchad]

It’s not erosion stopping the magnums from chambering, it’s a build up of fouling (carbon, lead, copper, gradoo…).

Pull the cylinder and soak it in solvent, at least overnight. I use a Mason jelly jar with a lid and Hoppe‘s #9. A .38 bore brush is too small to be effective, get some good bronze chamber brushes (Brownell’s sells them). I’ve heard of slightly flaring the mouth of a .357 case and using it as a chamber scraper, but I haven’t tried it.

[Alcapone396]

Use a numbered drill bit on an old drill motor chuck and turn it by hand..It will remove the fouling and you will be good to go!!!

[chief38]

The LEWIS LEAD REMOVER is your answer! It will solve your problem in a half hour with no damage to the fire arm. If you can't get one locally, Brownell's carrys them.

regards,
chief38

[2hawk]

If you've got a decent hardware store near you, you might get some bronze wool (or copper Chore-Boy type pads), and wrap a bit around and old barrel brush. Works pretty well, I've gotten a lot of build up out of a few guns this way.

[handgunner356]

Brownells also has a oversize stainless 38/357 chamber brushes, they work well for me. Just don't stick it down the barrel they're to long to back out (so I've been told!).

[mtime7]

chuck an oversized bronze brush in your drill to remove build up.. But your problem seems pretty bad, and I bought a M19 with a simular problem, I took it to my gunsmith and he had a reamer that he said was built just for this problem. a couple turns with his fingers in each cylander, than a brush with some solvent and it was gone

[SMSgt]

Plus 1 on the ChoreBoy copper scrubbing pad. Let solvent soak the chambers for a while, cut off a strip of the ChoreBoy pad, and wrap it around your brass brush. Scrub the cylinders well and it will remove any lead or powder residue without harming the chambers. I use it to remove leading and it works well. Cheap too. Make sure it's Choreboy. Other brands are "copper-coated" and can scratch.

[bountyhunter]

Originally Posted by SourwoodTom

Hey guys,

For years I've been shooting an M-28 in our local gun range's IPSC-style Monday night competition.

Here's my problem: I've probably put 3000 rounds of .38 through the gun, with regular cleaning and maintenance. The other day I took it out to a friend's backyard range and we were shooting at pumpkins. I brought along some .357's I'd loaded a few years back and found that they no longer chambered in the gun. They protruded from the recessed cylinder the .1" that is the difference b/w .38 and .357. I tried factory loads with the same results.

What is the best way to open the end of the chambers back up? Upon close inspection, you can see what looks similar to the flash erosion above a forcing cone. I've tried both copper and stainless brushes with every type of bore cleaner I have.

Dremmel with a polishing wheel and rouge?

The buildup is not lead, it is hard carbon that is flame broiled onto the insides of the cylinder tubes. It MUST be kept clean or what happened will happen over and over.

An easy way to soften it and make it removable is to soak it in Berryman's Chem Dip for a few days. Then use a bore brush.

My technique is to use a NYLON bore brush on a rod in a hand drill. Dip the brush in chrome polish and run it in the cylinder tubes. You can also cut strips of scotchbrite pads and wrap them onto the brush for more cutting action.

[n4zov]

Originally Posted by chief38

The LEWIS LEAD REMOVER is your answer! It will solve your problem in a half hour with no damage to the fire arm. If you can't get one locally, Brownell's carrys them.

regards,
chief38

Good advice. Just spend spent the money for the Lewis Lead Remover and be done with it. It's designed to do the job at hand and can be used to remove lead from the barrel if you ever have that problem. It's money well spent.

[357larry]

A lot of good ideas presented here. All of my current firearms are stainless steel. I bought a police trade-in model 66 a while back that was in pretty rough shape and had a problem similar to yours. I coated a patch with simi-chrome and managed to coat the chambers pretty well with it. I let it sit overnight then took a bronze brush to it. The crud came right out and left the chambers looking smooth and shiny.

[semperfi71]

I have used both the Lewis Lead Remover and copper Chore Boy. I now use the Chore Boy exclusively, it will take out leading or carbon deposits faster and more efficiently than the Lewis Lead Remover.

The Lewis tool still has a use. It has a plug that fits the forcing cone. Utilizing it and the brass pads cleans the crud out of a revolver forcing cone. A very good thing to be doing with K-Frame S&Ws.

[HEADKNOCKER]

I made myself a scraper from a spent 357 Brass Case that I drilled the primer pocket out to accept a 8/32 screw & put a nut on the outside & cut the bolt down so I could attache it to a cleaning rod, I then expanded the case & sharpened the inside casemouth with a tapered reamer & now have a great tool for starting the carbon removal process in 357 chambers..
The 686 I was cleaning had saw several hundred rounds of 38spl without the ledge being cleaned & was caked on something fierce.. I spent over two hours on the cylinder soaking it with Hoppes #9 with a Q-Tip & useing my "Tool" then a piece of Bronze Wool/Chore Boy around an old 30cal brush chucked in my cordless drill on slow speed + Lots of Hoppes got it all but spotless, I then followed up with the Brownells Flex Hones to give the chambers a very uniformed crosshatch pattern..
I bet I used 50 patches total..
I was looking down each chamber with an eye loupe with a borelight & could see all the carbon that had built up like a stairstep..
Thought I'd share the Tool made from a spent case..
It realy worked well, Much better than a Bore brush for getting the main burnt on carbon out of the cylinders holes..
Here's a ****** Pic of it I took while doing the cleaning
Now I gotta make one up in 38 Super for cleaning my 940 after shooting 9mms..
Gary/Hk

[tomcatt51]

A short piece of cleaning rod in a variable speed drill motor and for 38/357, a .40/.41/10mm bronze bore brush. Wet the chamber and brush with Hoppe's or you favorite solvent and get after it. Finish as usual with patches. Any other method seems like wasting time. I shoot lots of 38's and 38's trimmed to .900" in my 38/357's. They definitely leave carbon "steps" in the chambers. You don't have to remove the cylinder and clamp it in a vise, just flip it open and clean. With the brush spinning, little force is required to push it thru. I like to take skeptics "clean" gun and clean the chambers this way and show them how much crud they weren't getting out. The other methods, pushing a brush etc. thru by hand, are too likely to leave a layer of polished carbon in the chamber and just look clean. My 2 cents.

[semperfi71]

For me, the simplest solution is to shoot only .357 cases in .357s. Either loaded to .38 Special levels or magnums.

[minconrevo]

Originally Posted by handgunner356

Brownells also has a oversize stainless 38/357 chamber brushes, they work well for me. Just don't stick it down the barrel they're to long to back out (so I've been told!).

Brownell's SS brushes work just fine to remove buildup from a cylinder. Their part # 084-455-137 @ $7.99 per 3. (Note the caution NOT to try in a barrel.)

Try 3-4 strokes by hand with this brush first. If stubborn gunk isn't gone, then try the Kroil soak for a few hours, then repeat with brush. If buildup is heavy, expect to get to push pretty hard. A Lewis Lead Remover T-handle will give you more purchase over a standard cleaning rod.

[badbob38]

If you do use a drill I would be very careful. I work part-time at a indoor range, and take of the rental guns. I have had people bring handguns in just like yours. I tell it will a day or two before I can get to it. Soon as they leave I pull the wheel and drop in a jar of hoppes #9 and put lid on the and everytime I walk by I give her a little shake, two days and what is left I wipe it. GOOD STUFF I buy it by the quart. When they pick it up, I say no charge hurry back. And they do bob k.

[Gunner11]

I agree with chief38. Lewis Lead Removers work. Also, I shoot a lot of 38's and brush my 38/357 cylinders with worn 45 cal brushes. The extra diameter of the 45 brushes helps. Good Luck. BTW, be careful if you're thinking of using SS brushes, they could scratch your cylinder.