I'm working on a Model 1-1/2 and when I removed the drift pins on the top strap I didn't make any notes because the cylinder stop assembly made perfect sense. Now, a week later, I've gone totally brain dead and can't figure out how the spring goes in. Even worse, I can't see how it can possibly supply downward force on the cylinder stop. There are three pins with the front being the hinge and every configuration of the spring puts it tight against the 3rd pin.
The only diagram I've seen is in "Antique Firearms: Assembly/Disassembly" by David Chicoine and he's short the middle pin for the mod. 1-1/2.
Can anybody help? Thanks

Attached Images

SWMod1.5_1.jpg (34.3 KB, 66 views)

I got some help from opoefc in the S&W Antiques section and got the 1-1/2 back together this evening so I'm posting it here as well:

The hook on the end of the spring goes under the center pin with the flat end of the spring toward the front of the gun. In the proper orientation, the flat of the spring sits above the baseline of the channel and bears on the front bottom of the cylinder stop assembly. The spring lifts the front end of the cylinder stop and it pivots on the front pin providing downward pressure at the back end. My problem was that I had bent the spring slightly in a previous assembly attempt, so it layed flat in the channel and did nothing. This is an easy fix in case someone has a non-working cylinder stop with apparently no spring power. The only pin that really needs to come out (with a brass drift) is the front hinge pin, and the screw on top for the striker spring doesn't need to be removed. Just slide the assembly back and up to unhook it from the rear pin and lift up. Carefully bend the spring upward on the side toward the front of the gun and reassemble.
Thanks for the help, Reid

Attached Images

S&W1.5_3.jpg (27.7 KB, 29 views)

I am having the same problem. The cylinder stop does not have enough pressure to lock the stop in the cylinder. Your drawing I believe will help me. I have Dave's book but by the look of your picture, I was installing that spring with the notch under the pin instead inserting the notch upward. That makes sense to have pressure on the stop. I broke off about 1/16" off the spring when I withdrew it from under the pins. Also, I removed all three pins when I should have only removed the first pin. I made another spring after my third attempt and it still did not have the pressure. But, I now think it is upside down. I tried to acquire another spring but to no avail. Once again, You stated the notch fits under or over the second pin and the short end of the spring fits under the third pin? The cylinder stop spring that screws on the cylinder stop is no problem. If fits tight. The problem I am haveing is the very short spring with the curve as dipicted in the picture you attached under that other spring that screws on the cylinder stop. I would appreciate the help. thanks.
Nick

Thanks for posting this. I have a No. 2 Army that came to me without a stop spring, and I have been trying to find one. But just looking at drawings and the pin arrangement I could not for the live of me figure out for sure how the spring would wind through the pins in a say to force the stop down into the cylinder notch. You just answered my installation question.

Now if I can just find that spring...

__________________
David Wilson

Dave:
I have tried for weeks trying to acquire one. You can make one with only a minimum of equipment. AGI has a video on how to make flat and coil springs by Robert Dunlap, master Gunsmith. Buy the DVD and also the DVD on heat treating. This was my first attempt on making a spring and it took me three attempts. I am hoping Zeigler clarified what I was doing wrong in the installation of the spring. Hope that helps.
Nick

Here are some additional photos. Making the spring shouldn't be difficult but be careful not to make it too stiff or overly hard. Good luck! -Reid

Attached Images

	S&W_CS_1.jpg (40.1 KB, 52 views)
	S&W_CS_2.jpg (47.4 KB, 62 views)
	S&W_CS_3.jpg (53.3 KB, 61 views)