I just got this M-64 from an auction and it's in good shape except for a bit of a tight spot in cylinder rotation. The cylinder is a bit sticky to open and with the cylinder open and rotated by hand, I can see a bit of wobble in the rod housing. According to my testing on a surface plate everything else seems straight but the star at the end of the extractor shows the wobble. It looks like this is pressed on to the tube.

I also notice a bit of chew marks on the back of the cylinder and on a corresponding area on the frame where I imagine that the cylinder jammed and somebody pried it open with screwdriver. I imagine that the same person got a case or two jammed real good in the cylinder (probably Bubba ammo) and beat the extractor rod to get them out. I also see the knurling damaged on the front end of the rod where it was grabbed with pliers or Vise-Grips. Hmmm, what does THAT say?

In any case, is this a common damage with a standard fix or do I just figure it out myself? I think a new one is about $40. There should be a "Bubba" test before you can own guns.

knotbrush,

The damaged knurling would indicate your identification of the tinkerer as being Bubba is probably correct.

If when you roll the extractor on the surface plate you see the extractor does nor run true but wobbles like a bent wheel this is not good. I assume the extractor is the older "round" style? If so, the gun needs to go back to the factory to have a new extractor fit as it is not sold except to authorized service centers.

The head of the extractor is attached to the shaft by induction brazing and if it has a wobble the brazed joint has probably partially failed.

Without seeing the gun it is hard to speculate what caused the "chew" marks, but if it is on the outside of the cylinder and the bottom of the top-strap I would say your supposition of being pried open with a screwdriver is probably right. At this point what I would expect the gun will need is an extractor, extractor rod, and likely the yoke needs to be aligned. The best place for repairs is the factory, and, except for shipping, probably the least expensive.

I don't know the difference between "Old" or "New" style extractor and can't easily find the information. This one has left-hand threads and a keyway in the tubular body.

The other problem I found is that the front sight is not exactly at 12:00 but about 5 degrees too far clockwise. Is this fixable? The guy I bought it from has no return policy so I need to fix everything or sell it as is. I would disclose all the problems or I wouldn't sleep at night. I'd rather get it running right but at the moment I'm heartsick.

Anything is repairable, even a cracked block in an old Duesenberg SJ, it's simply a matter of spending enough money. So the real question is whether it's worth fixing.

Fortunately, your model 64 is of fairly recent manufacture so you should be able to find parts for it easily. IMO the suggestion of sending it to S&W for this work is quite sound. I would expect that worst case with shipping will probably push 300 bucks. Probably about what you'd pay for a somewhat beat up model 64, so not exactly cheap from the cost/benefit standpoint.

However on the plus side you'll have your model 64 in tip top shooting condition and can then expect it to last for at least 12 thousand dollars worth of ammunition with just some basic cleaning and maintenance. I find it odd that people are so concerned about gun repair or purchase costs when the really major cost in shooting isn't repair or maintenance, it's the cost of the ammunition.

It seems you've learned the lesson of why I won't purchase a used gun I cannot examine myself. Yeah, it may seem an expensive lesson but I can tell you that life lessons are always expensive when they happen. The cost for your repair is just about 15 boxes of 38 spl., so take your lumps, learn from it and move on.

Yep, just like a computer is a fraction of the cost of the software needed to make it productive. I have had superior luck buying used guns, my last 29-3 6" nickel was dirty from all six rounds that had been fired through it. The owner probably decided that it wasn't his idea of fun. I got it for <$500.The pictures were horrible, it is brand-spankin new, I' almost hate to shoot it. I assumed my luck wouldn't last forever. However, the guy I bought the 64 from has offered to take it back or help pay for the repairs! This, after the auction states "No Returns"....So, my luck isn't up yet. I'm going to have my gunsmith look at it before I do anything.

Could you tell me the difference between old and new style extractors? I couldn't find a definitive answer. I think the left-hand threads is indicative of "New Style"?

knotbrush,

The old style extractor appears to be round, 6 arms all the same length. The new extractor appears to be roughly square with a wide radius on the corners. The old style will have a square groove in the shaft while the new will be "D" shaped with a flat side instead of the groove. Since you mention a groove it would be the old style that is a factory only item.