What is the best and safest solvent to use on my new 642 to remove the gunpowder residue from the top strap area and the forcing cone area. I tried gunzilla but did not have much success. Maybe I need to leave it on there longer. Any suggestions? Thanks

i've always used hoppes #9, no complaints and no reason to try anything else.

I like Butch's Bore Shine for removing powder residue.

Shooters Choice is my favorite. I always used Hoppes #9 but I think this works better.

Thanks guys. I have a little Shooters Choice and some Hoppes #9. I will try one or both and see if that helps.

Auto chrome polish and a nylon brush is the best thing for taking the black burns off the frame and forcing cone. Try it, works better than any gun cleaner.

I use the car product stuff called Nev'r Dull.
It comes in a tin that is full of a cotton material that is impregnated with some sort of polish for mag wheels.
It works really well on stainless guns for the cylinder, strap and inside of the cylinder frame area cleanup. It won't take all of the carbon/lead residue off of the front of the cylinder though, takes most of it off, but works well on all other parts.
I use a wooden chop stick to wedge it into hard to reach spots. I have chop sticks with sharpened, chisel, pointed and blunt ends, they are really easy to trim to your liking and cannot scratch the finish at all being wood.
YMMV.

MPro 7 and a toothbrush is a safe solvent. But, if the burns won't come off, use auto chrome polish and a Q-Tip/toothbrush.

Hoppes 9 was my choice but have switched to Ed's Red. I think I like it a bit better. It is cheaper to boot.

Here is a link that you might find useful. Homemade Firearm Related Products

I've had my best luck with Butch's Bore Shine. Hoppe's #9 will work, but it takes longer and you need to use more.

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SWCA 2379

As far as solvents go, it's hard to beat Hoppe's #9 for its price and availability ...

Thanks for all the tips guys. I will try a few out and let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

I use a Remington lead wipe on the cylinder face and forcing cone of my 617, it's an all stainless gun with stainless cylinder and the wipe won't hurt it. I've also used it on my nickel plated Uberti Cattleman with no ill effects. However, I would hesitate to use it on the 642's frame because it's an airweight with a clear coated aluminum frame. I would try Hoppe's elite with a bunch of Q-tips because I wouldn't trust a nylon brush not to damage to the clear coat. Now if that clear coat was removed completely, then you could just use Mothers' Mag polish with abandon and make it look like a chromed pimp gun.

60/40 mix of Hoppe's #9 and Kano Kroil.

Jack Daniels works pretty good for me......Oh, you mean gun solvent.

Shooters Choice works well, (especially on heavily fouled guns) if you can handle the stink or if you use it outdoors. If your firearm just needs a routine cleaning and does not have excessive fouling, Hoppes #9 works well, (smells great too). I have also used a product that was made by RIG called Rig #2 oil. It is a cleaner, rust preventative, & moisture remover
all in one and results are terrific........bad news is they don' make it anymore. I believe you can buy the same formula (more than likely it was made for Brownells by RIG) from Brownells , and it is called #2 oil also.

chief38

This post has mentioned a number of products that I use. I clean my handguns with Hoppe's #9 or Shooters Choice. I really don't see much difference removing powder fouling.

However, for rifle shooting, I use a cleaner with more ammonia for copper removal and I like Butch's Bore Shine or Montana Extreme. For heavy copper fouling, I use Sweet's 7.62. However, remove as much Sweet's as possible before using an ammonia based cleaner. If I shoot Moly bullets, I use a 50/50 mixture of Shooter's Choice and Kroil's.

For wiping down my bench rest 6mm PPC cases, I use Nev'r Dull. Haven't tried it on stainless but I think it would work great.

All of the above is worth 2 cents.

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Dick

+1 for Ed's Red. By far the cheapest and BEST solution to a dirty gun. I use it for many other things around the house. Considering it cost as much to make a gallon as it does to purchase an 8oz bottle of Shooters choice, it isn't even a contest for me.

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Dave

Between the forcing cone and the top strap is a tough spot to reach.

I use a flattened 12 gauge shotgun brush and Hoppes to clean and scrub it.

The long bristles get between the cone and the strap and and clean it out.

Just stomp on an old 12 ga. brush, dip it in Hoppes and have at it.

45 Wheelgun,

Have you added anhydrous lanolin to your Ed's Red? If so, did you find a local source or order it? Don't shoot much shotgun but I find the Ed's Red kills wad fouling big time. Better than anything I have tried. Mixed a gallon batch and gave it away to my shooting friends (8 pints total) for trial a while ago. Made 8 converts.

I never tried adding the optional lanolin, I never saw the need.

Smith357 and I also made up "samplers" and passed them out at the range to our Sunday Match buddies. Made a pile of converts that day.

I love the smell. All a girl would have to do was put a dab behind each ear...I'd follow her anywhere...

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Dave

Here is a neat trick for cleaning between the hard to get at area between the top of the forcing cone and the bottom of the top strap:

Wet a sharp single edge razor blade with some solvent and hold it at a very acute angle against the bottom of the top strap. With one or two slow passes, it will remove 99% of the lead. To complete the job, take a rough white cotton shoe lace (from a sneaker) wet it with solvent and work it back and forth a few times, - lead is gone!

PS: Don't laugh too hard when your wife wonders why her sneakers no longer have their laces!! (LOL)

Regards,
chief38

Another idea to try if my wife will let me borrow some laces, I'll put em back.