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  #1  
Old 01-01-2011, 09:44 PM
ghitch75 ghitch75 is offline
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Default 66-2 stiff pull DA?

when i got it it was stiff in DA and worked fine in SA.....so i got a wolff spring kit..installed it ...now in DA it is really stiff trigger pull and some times it won't DA at all like the cylinder is locked up....but if i SA it the cylinder will DA a few times( could be 1 trigger pull or might go 10) then acts of it the cylinder locks again in DA....any ideas?...

thanks

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  #2  
Old 01-01-2011, 10:06 PM
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try elimination process.

open the cylinder and hold the cyl release back.

if the trigger is no longer stiff, your culprit is in the cylinder.

if still stiff, try the elimination process with internals to find.

was it like this always? could the cyl yoke be in a bind or off?
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:14 PM
ghitch75 ghitch75 is offline
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thanks you for your reply.....i have been lookin' at it more sense i posted.....it looks like the hand is in gauging before the cyl lock pulls down...and yes it was stiff when i bought it..the cyl spins free and no wobble ...trigger is smooth with cyl open ..i got it cheap because of the trouble.....if i would file the top of the hand down would that help?

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Old 01-01-2011, 10:32 PM
m1gunner m1gunner is offline
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Have you cleaned the internals and made sure the cyl stop is free in its movement? No broken cyl stop spring or rebound spring?
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:40 PM
ghitch75 ghitch75 is offline
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it has all new springs....wolff set...
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:42 PM
m1gunner m1gunner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghitch75 View Post
it has all new springs....wolff set...
Cyl stop spring also?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:04 PM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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Considering the excellence and desireability of the model 66, I think that you should look for a good S&W armorer. My hunch is that at some point the hand, or extractor, was replaced and it wasn't properly fitted. Since this is an issue that can greatly effect timing and thus safety, I would pay a pro to get it right.
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Old 01-02-2011, 01:14 AM
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More likely the cylinder stop need replacing. It could be worn, or it cound have been stoned too much or the trigger nose could have been stoned too much too. A new stop may be enough to fix it. I think sending it back to the factory would be your best fix unless you can find a Smith locally to open it up and diagnose the exact issue.
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Old 01-02-2011, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightowl View Post
More likely the cylinder stop need replacing. It could be worn, or it cound have been stoned too much or the trigger nose could have been stoned too much too. A new stop may be enough to fix it. I think sending it back to the factory would be your best fix unless you can find a Smith locally to open it up and diagnose the exact issue.
Also could be cylinder stop 'wink' which can happen even with relatively new guns with moderate use. This can be cured sometimes by a good armorer or 'smith, and others may require a new cylinder stop be fitted. However...

The 66-2's are all now at least 25 years young (66-3 started production in 1986) and I suspect some that have been stored may be suffering from oil from which the carrying agent has evaporated, thus causing sticky internals. I think there is at least a 50/50 chance that a good cleaning and relube might resolve this issue
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:09 PM
ghitch75 ghitch75 is offline
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Quote:
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Also could be cylinder stop 'wink' which can happen even with relatively new guns with moderate use. This can be cured sometimes by a good armorer or 'smith, and others may require a new cylinder stop be fitted. However...

The 66-2's are all now at least 25 years young (66-3 started production in 1986) and I suspect some that have been stored may be suffering from oil from which the carrying agent has evaporated, thus causing sticky internals. I think there is at least a 50/50 chance that a good cleaning and relube might resolve this issue
thats the first thing i tried was a good cleanin' and lube....then changed the springs and didn't get any better.....i think i'll try a over size hand.....if all else fails it will go to S&W....
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:51 PM
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You could also be getting a 'stubber' with the interaction of your DA sear and trigger...where the trigger 'stubs up' against the bottom of what is often a poorly fitted DA sear on the hammer. When that happens the gun is locked up in DA but once released the trigger will pick up and work properly in SA. Hard to tell without seeing it but I sorta doubt this is a hand issue.
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:36 PM
ghitch75 ghitch75 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikor View Post
You could also be getting a 'stubber' with the interaction of your DA sear and trigger...where the trigger 'stubs up' against the bottom of what is often a poorly fitted DA sear on the hammer. When that happens the gun is locked up in DA but once released the trigger will pick up and work properly in SA. Hard to tell without seeing it but I sorta doubt this is a hand issue.
it's smooth as glass with the cyl open and release pull back...as i said in 1 of my other posts i can see the hand grabs the stars before the cyl stop lets go...i filed off some of the top of the hand and it's better but still not right....
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:44 PM
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Guess I missed that somehow. Maybe it is the hand then. Pretty rare in my experience but not unheard of. Good luck with it!
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:49 PM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghitch75 View Post
thanks you for your reply.....i have been lookin' at it more sense i posted.....it looks like the hand is in gauging before the cyl lock pulls down...and yes it was stiff when i bought it..the cyl spins free and no wobble ...trigger is smooth with cyl open ..i got it cheap because of the trouble.....if i would file the top of the hand down would that help?
Think about it, with the cylinder open that lockwork functions properly. That leads me to think of just 2 possibilities. One is the cylinder is binding on the barrel, which I assume you've already checked because it's so obvious. The second is that the hand is binding on the drive dogs on the extractor. That problem isn't easy to spot, it takes a gunsmith that knows what a hand/extractor bind feels like. BTW, if this is the case, an oversize hand won't fix the problem, because you already have an oversize hand that wasn't properly fitted.

Seriously, you got the gun at a bargain price because some Bubba has already been at it. Spend 60 or 70 bucks and have it fixed properly by a Pro.
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extractor, gunsmith, lock, model 66

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