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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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  #1  
Old 01-08-2011, 07:39 PM
pistolnut pistolnut is offline
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Default Polishing paper on bead blasted surfaces

Hi,
I can't remember, somewhere I read where somebody
used and recommended 30 micron fine polishing paper
on bead blasted finishes, it gave almost a similar look
to bead blasting, not shiny.

Has anybody used this technique?
If so any suggestions. Pictures would be great.

Thanks
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:16 PM
jepp2 jepp2 is offline
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Just checking, but you do mean bead blasted and not brushed?

Right?

If you mean brushed, the grey Scotch Brite pads match well.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:48 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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Nothing will match a bead blasted finish but more bead blasting.

One old trick to "sort of" blend in a damaged area of bead blasting is to lay a piece of metal-type sand cloth on the area and tap with a small hammer.
The impact drives the abrasive cloth into the metal and that leaves bead blasted-like impressions.
Again, this is only for trying to blend in a very small area.

If you use any abrasive paper on a bead blasted finish, it sands off the bead blast finish and leaves a "brushed" finish that looks nothing like the bead blasting.
This is this is the one downside to a bead blasted finish..... the only way to restore it is by blasting it again.

To test this, get a piece of steel and rub with the abrasive paper. Compare to a bead blasted finish and you'll see just how different they look.
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:36 PM
pistolnut pistolnut is offline
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Thank you for your response.

Is it hard to re-bead blast a gun yourself?
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:43 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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It's not hard but there are some serious considerations to take into account.

First, you have to understand HOW to safely disassemble the gun 100% and have the gunsmith's screwdrivers and other tools needed to do it.

Next, if you want only parts of the gun blasted, such as the top of the frame, you have to understand how to mask off all the other areas.

You have to use a blast media (abrasive beads) of the correct "grit" and you have to figure out how much air pressure to use to get the desired surface. By changing the grit and type of media and regulating the air pressure you can get many different textures. You have to use the right combination to get the right texture.

You have to use the correct blast set up for the metal your gun is made of.
If it's carbon steel, most any blaster set up will do.
However, if the gun is stainless steel or aluminum you MUST use either a blast cabinet that's used ONLY for stainless and aluminum, or you have to totally clean out the cabinet and re-load with new media.
If you blast stainless or aluminum in a unit that's been used to blast carbon steel, tiny particles of carbon steel will be embedded into the stainless or aluminum and will rust later, ruining the metal.

For the same reasons, you have to be careful about letting some local gunsmith do it. He may not even know, or may just dismiss the cautions about using a carbon steel blaster to blast stainless.
I once had a customer who blasted an aluminum frame in a auto garage blaster.
He was astounded when the aluminum frame started rusting.
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:45 PM
pistolnut pistolnut is offline
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dfariswheel,
Thanks for the info.
After reading your post I have determined to send
it to Novaks or S&W.
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Old 01-10-2011, 10:09 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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Good move.
That's how nice guns stay nice.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:09 PM
WNC Seabee WNC Seabee is offline
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Other than Novaks or SW, who would be a good option for blasting my 629? I want to get it blasted down to a dull/matte/no reflection finish for hunting.
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Old 01-10-2011, 11:17 PM
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My experience that maroon Scotchbrite will give the matte finish you want. It will be "uniform scratches" not the finish you get from bead blasting. But it will be non reflective. About 5 times as much elbow grease with a softer Scotchbrite will get a mirror finish back. You know how I know.
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Old 01-11-2011, 10:01 PM
dfariswheel dfariswheel is offline
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One trick to dull the finish of a stainless gun is to totally disassemble it, and scrub it with a cleansing powder like Barkeeper's Friend and a toothbrush.
The abrasive powder is mixed with just enough water to form a fairly thick paste and the metal is scrubbed.

This won't give a true dull finish but it will reduce the shine.

For bead blasting, many good gunsmiths can do it, but again, make SURE he understands about using a blaster that was used for carbon steels on stainless.
Many don't know this, and some just don't think it's an issue.
If you have a higher-tech machine shop operation locally, many have blasters used only for stainless and aluminum.
If you disassemble the gun, many will do it for you, but remember, they aren't gunsmiths and may not really understand the issues.
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