After seeing numerous posts requesting information on how to install S&W logos in unmarked stocks or grips, I have decided to give it a try myself and post the details of my effort.
I had just recently made a pair of grips (my second attempt) to fit my "new classic" model 40-1 lemon squeezer because grips for that model gun are not easy to find, using Arctic White Corian as the raw material because I wanted a pure white glossy grip to go with my nickel gun.
This is how the grips looked when completed before the logos:





They were nice enough but I do like the nickel logos installed so I decided to purchase a set on Ebay which as I found out are not like the factory logos as they are not curved at all on the top surface and they do not have a stem in the back which was fine with me. They are metal and very nicely detailed and have shiny nickel plating.
The seller told me they measure 13/32" in diameter which is not a common drill bit size. It's bigger than 3/8" but smaller than 7/16". He said what most guys do is buy a 7/16" Forstner bit and grind it down to 13/32". OK....never tried that before but I'm game.
I then purchased a Forstner bit on line for $5.00 + shipping and it was delivered in a few days.



The nice thing about Forstner bits is that they drill flat bottom holes and cut a nice circle on top with no tear out.

I then chucked the bit in my hand drill, switched the direction to reverse so it would rotate opposite of my grinder, took a steady hold and very lightly applied the spinning drill bit to the grinder, checking my progress with test holes along the way. Safety note: wear eye protection for any grinding operation.





When I was happy with the test holes I checked the bit in a spare piece of Corian to check the size and depth:





Next step was to determine the location of the logos on my grip panels. I wanted them close to the top in the traditional location. After making a few measurements and marking some pencil lines to locate the center I was ready to drill.....



I used the test block that I set my depth of cut with and placed the bit into it and used blue masking tape to wrap the bit so I would know how deep to drill.....



Using the hand drill to drill the holes allowed me to align the bit with the surface of the grips as they tapered in both directions. I would drill a little, then check my progress to make sure the hole was square with the surface. When I reached the tape depth marker, I stopped there and test fit the logos. Here the grips are shown with the drilling complete.



If you are drilling into wood grips, you would be ready to glue your logos into place at this time, but since I was using Corian I wanted to lightly sand the area around the hole with 800 grit wet sandpaper and polish the edge off the plastic a little. For this I use a loose cotton buffing wheel chucked into my drill which was lightly clamped into the vice and applied a little white compound which really brings out the shine and smooths the sharp edge around the holes.



Finally, with everything cleaned and ready, I mixed up a small batch of 5 minute epoxy and applied just a drop or two into the base of the hole for the logo. Carefully sliding them into place and positioning the logo as needed.





After an hour, they were good and solid so I applied a couple of coats of Renaissance wax to the grips and reapplied them to the gun. I really like the way they turned out. Best of luck with your project. Bob

You did a great job. Thanks for showing.

Charlie

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SWCA # 2294

I'm really impressed and what a great looking job. Thanks for sharing.

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Dick

Really nice job, thank you for sharing. They look great!

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NICK-SWCA-NRA BENEFACTOR LIFE

Very nice job. Great pictures too.

I've always found a 10 mm bit works pretty well.

Really nice! I'm always amazed at what some people can do with their hands. I have a hard time combing my hair.

Great writeup and those look very nice on that 40-1.

Excellent job. My 40-1 doesn't shine as well as yours; mine shows scratches and smudges. How did you get such a nice bright luster to the nickel finish?

Great Post! Very informative and nice work.

Beautiful!!!

Thanks for putting up the snaps!

Drew

Great Job! ....and that nickel 40 is pretty sharp too

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On the Oak Savannah

They came out great!

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Dom

VERY NICE. WHERE DID YOU OBTAIN MEDALIONS?

KEN BENNETT
#2192

I too am impressed. A great looking job.

That is truly a beautiful set of grips on a great looking gun.

The whole package is outstanding.

Thanks for sharing the steps to make it happen.

augy

Very Nice!!!!!!!

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S&W Accumulator

PRO>>fessional. Nice post!

I use MAAS polish which is super fine and then a coat of Ren wax. Plus, just the right photo angle helps to hide the faint scratches Bob

Thanks for the complements. The logos I purchased were available on Ebay from seller tonyswholesale and cost me around $8.00

Get in the market! You will become the next "Keith Brown" of corian grips. I know that i might want want pair or two.

medxam

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Doc Garrett
Dead Man's Doctor

this is a great post. how do you like your 40-1?

After a couple of boxes of the Hornady .38 spl.+P, 110 grain FTX fired off hand or Weaver stance, I find this gun very accurate at 25 to 35 feet and able to keep groups of 3 rounds within 2 to 3 inches. The DAO was smooth and not too heavy. Although my wife had some difficulty compressing the safety during dry fire practice, I had no problem with it what so ever.
Overall I am very happy with this revolver. Bob

thanks for your reply. i have some older j frames and one recent 642. i know that if i don't get one of these i will regret it.

Nice work Magnum, they look great.

And that is a pimpilicious 40!

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Regards,
Brian.

Great job, looks just like my nic,40-1 but better

Thanks for posting. I had been asking for guidance for several months without too many replies.

very professional job, I wish I had your talent!

WOW!! Well done and a nice write up

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Dyin ain't much of a livin

Great instruction!! I'm getting my nerve up to give it a try.

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... fortunate son...

Outstanding! Thanks for posting this great how-to.

Admin...can we make it a sticky somewhere?

Good looking finished product and excellent description of the "how to". My talents are miserably lacking when it comes to patience and exact measurements.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Has anyone tried this on a rubber grip made by Hogue, Uncle Mike's or Pachmayr?