I have a 686SSR and a 627, both Pro Series. Nice but I would like a lighter trigger as they both are in the 11-11.5 lb range. Any suggestions on how to get this accomplished in the home shop?
Thanks in advance.

Before it's recommended that you start swapping springs and polishing this and that, do yourself a favor and invest in Jerry Miculek's DVD for S&W revolvers called "Trigger Job".

He does a through job of explaining the workings of the S&W lock work and how to improve things without going over board and reducing reliability, which is easy to do.

If there is ANYONE that knows how make a S&W revolver work better, it is Jerry Miculek and the proof is in his accomplishments.

I used the DVD to improve the pull on my DAO 432PD Airweight, and I'm quite pleased.

__________________
Conrad
SWCA #1830 SWHF #222

Jerry is the man and the CD is spot on. Just don't start watching it after 9pm or you'll crash and wake up at midnight and it's over. It is not high speed like his shooting!

What Conrad said. Sure worked for me. My 681 is amazingly slick now.

__________________
-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

^^^^

Agreed!

At your advice I just purchased it prior to doing any spring replacement.

The key thing about trigger work is reducing friction between the moving parts. When you start playing with lighter springs the hammer's fall and the trigger reset is slowed. This ain't what you want. Reducing the trigger return spring a little can be OK but the mainspring should be close to full power for a crisp release. The Kuhnhausen manual is very good.

Drail....did you know JM uses a 7 lbs main spring in his spring kits he sells??

and a lighter rebound spring.

I don't know but I would almost bet that he like most comp shooters is also using Federal primers. With Federals you CAN reduce the mainspring substantially and still retain 100% ignition. I have set up a 625 with the mainspring tension screw backed WAY out just to see how light I could get the DA pull before the hammer started to "knuckle". With Federals it went bang every time. Put a WW primer in it and it's 50/50. Put a CCI in it and all you'll get is a click. It is common for guys to try to achieve very light pull weights by simply swapping lighter springs in. But two problems arise - the hammer will fall slower and may not bang off certain brands of primers and the trigger will reset so slowly that your finger has to wait for it. If you use Federal only primed ammo you can get away with a very light mainspring and a slightly lighter rebound spring and the gun will go bang every time and still reset fast enough for us mortals who don't have a finger like Jerry does. For many years before he became famous his S&Ws were all setup with factory weight springs (according to him.) He has very strong hands and very fast reflexes. I have tried and failed to even cycle an empty gun as fast as he can fire live and (and hit stuff). I have stood directly behind him at matches and still can't believe how fast he cycles a S&W. He's not human. But he is a very nice guy. He will answer any questions and show you exactly how he does it.

Jerry himself told me one time that he uses the heaviest rebound spring he can get. The reason being it returns his finger faster and improves his speed shooting. Exercise increases the strength to handle the trigger pull. But, he does "smooth" out the working parts.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Where do you get the Muclick (sp?) video?

Midway has it. Brownell's, too.

__________________
-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Thanks for the tip sir. Jerry's DVD cover says it applies to K, L, & N revolvers, but you said you used it for your 432PD, which is exactly the gun I'm looking for help with in this area. So....I guess that means the DVD is helpful on J Frames as well? Thanks for any clarification on using it for J's before I plunk down $20!

The J has a different mainspring, so the video won't be spot on, but definitely helpful.

When Polishing the Rebound Spring, Hammer Stud and Yoke Barrel Bosses is the aim to have a mirror finish on these parts? Is tha a video or someone that could share their technique for polishing these particular parts?

Definitely NOT. Only to smooth any high points, chew, burs or other inconsistency. Less is more...

My first ever trigger work was done on 625JM after and while watching the DVD. All went well and you will quite proud of what you can accomplish in areas that you didn't know could get attention to detail.
Nothing wrong in my opinion with changing springs unless you are using the revolver for self defense and don't fully understand what you are doing. Springs will allow you to return the gun to stock or have a few combo choices, the folks at Wolff Springs can be very helpful in selecting the correct springs for you.

Since that first gun I have tackled a few other S&W's of mine and a few Ruger DA's too, I actually enjoy it

However you may also find that a trigger job by a gunsmith is not as expensive as you may think and then you can discuss your goals and be rewarded by his experience in what to fiddle with and what not to.
I will also tell you that it is quite a reward when you do your own work and have a nice smooth action.

Enjoy and learn..........
Karl

Jerry Miculek is associated with a Louisiana outfit called Clark's Custom Guns started by the legendary Jim Clark, Sr. Jerry married Jim's daughter Kay and became family....Anyway, treat yourself...send your gun(s) to them for a trigger job. Not too expensive and worth every penny,
I have one gun with their trigger job....it is magical....shooting it is a pleasure, it puts a smile on my face and gladdens my old heart.
I don't know what they do or how, but every shooter should have one gun with that realy magical professionally done trigger.
For years I fancied myself a "gunsmith" read all the books, bought tools, spring kits , worked over guns..... but the truth is , my trigger jobs don't come nowhere close to what them folks can do.
Check out their site.
Gary

^^^well stated^^^
and if I may add, a professional trigger job may be best done to a revolver that you actually shoot a lot as opposed to a lightweight snubby that if you really need in a SD situation, you will never notice trigger smoothness or weight of pull anyway.
my 2¢

I just did one on my 640-1. watched several JM You Tube videos and a long video from anther professional GS.

__________________
John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor