Trigger stud bearings/shims?

dpsix · #1 01-12-2011, 11:23 AM

I have a Model 15 that locks up fine when fired DA from my right hand. When fired from the left, one or two chambers time up late. I assume that I am putting opposing side pressure on the trigger when shooting from different hands and resulting in insufficient lift. I believe that Power Custom makes bearings/shims for trigger studs, might that fix the problem? Any suggestion other that shoot right handed? Thank you.

srgvaz · #2 01-12-2011, 12:09 PM

Are the insides of the 15 clean? An indication that a shim is needed is an uneven area (scratched area) on either the trigger or hammer, and you should also check for side to side movement on either part. Do you feel any dragging during the trigger cycle?

dpsix · #3 01-12-2011, 02:28 PM

I doubt this gun had ever been cleaned before I bought it and it was gunked up internally. I have detail cleaned it. The action cycles evenly on all chambers, the side to side flop of hammer and trigger seems no more or less than anything I pulled from the safe. The cylinder spins freely and there is no woble in the extractor rod. There are no external wear marks on the trigger but there is on the left side of the hammer. Could it be one or two of the extractor lugs are at the point of not giving enough lift?

tomcatt51 · #4 01-12-2011, 05:48 PM

Did you have empties in the chambers? There are alot of "problems" you can find/create sitting on the couch playing with the gun that are not an issue when shooting it.

dpsix · #5 01-12-2011, 10:00 PM

Tom, I agree with you that not all problems effect the function of a revolver, but even so I prefer to have the cylinder stop snapped in place before the hammer starts to fall.

500 Magnum Nut · #6 01-13-2011, 06:24 AM

The bushings won't fix it. You have to bend the pin that the hand is attached to.

See the FAQ for "sing".

If the carry up is out, (check like tomcatt says) then you will need to change the hand to an oversized one, but before you change the hand, make sure the end shake it decent. If it's loose, this will contribute to the carry up issues.

tomcatt51 · #7 01-13-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 500 Magnum Nut

If the carry up is out, (check like tomcatt says) then you will need to change the hand to an oversized one, but before you change the hand, make sure the end shake it decent.

You'll find there is a considerable variance in thickness in "std" hands. You can usually just go with a thicker std hand. I'm sure several of my revolvers won't meet the "pull the trigger as slow as you possibly can and see if the cyl stop engages" test. It doesn't matter because when actually shooting it's a non-issue. I shot a PPC match and found my 625 had a hand worn enough the the gun wouldn't go bang shooting slow DA, I usually shoot USPSA, Pins or Steel and it was fine shooting faster. A new same thickness std hand fixed it.

Being curious, I shot groups (SA) with the cyl "slow" and the stop not engaged. The cyl just moved into alignment when fired (the stop engaged) and the groups opened up slightly. For the perceived "safety issue", before the cyl is far enough out of time for bullet/forcing cone issues it simply won't fire.

dpsix · #8 02-06-2011, 01:11 PM

To update. This revolver went from from short lift on one or two chambers when fired from the left hand sometimes, to failure to lift on two all the time. I ordered an oversize hand and other than touching the knife edges on the body of the new hand with a ruby stone, the hand installed with no problem. The Model 15 now times correctly SA, DA, slow pull or fast. All is well in Revolver Land, at least for the moment.