What is the remedy for a hard to open cylinder (M60). Thanks.

Pete (The Oldfella)

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NRA, GOA Lifer

Screw the ejector rod back in?

Yes, it's in tight - I clean my guns after each trip to the range, and I put a bit of oil on the locking button on this one, hoping it'll loosen-up...not!

Pete

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NRA, GOA Lifer

Pete: Take the cylinder latch button off and file a very little off of the front shoulder thereby allowing the cylinder release to completely release the cylinder bolt lock. It shouldn't take very much if it is getting the cylinder open at this time with excess pressure. ... Big Cholla

If it worked fine before the last disassembly I would not begin by filing anything. There may be other possibilities.

Was the cylinder removed during the last cleaning? If so debris inside the cylinder could be the cause. A broken bristle from a bore brush inside the cylinder could be interfering with the yoke seating in the cylinder.

Thanks Big Cholla - Unlike my other revolvers, the cylinder release latch on the M60 travels only slightly, about 2/16 of an inch. I have just removed the latch and pushed the stud itself, it works freely and releases the cylinder with ease. I replaced the latch and it binds again - filing the front of the latch wouldn't help matters (?).

EDIT - OK, I see what you mean. The bed under the latch need to be filed to allow it to move forward to push the cylinder locking button enough to free the locking action. Now I need to find a small stone to file it down. Thanks, I'll keep you posted.

Pete

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OK, bought a stone and worked a bit on the bottom of the latch, and still binds. I opened to cylinder and checked the latch wile in the open position. The latch travels freely back and forth, there was no need to file off the bottom of the latch. There seems to be a rough surface internally that prevents a free/smooth movement when you push down and forward on the latch, or the locking stud spring is simply to heavy. I think it is time for gunsmith to have a look at it. Thanks folks,

Pete

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NRA, GOA Lifer

Pete,

Here is something to try. With the cylinder closed, take a .004 feeler gauge and stick it in between the locking bolt and ejector rod.
If you can't get this feeler gauge in between with the cylinder closed, then open the hard to open cylinder, and then close the cylinder while you have the feeler gauge in place. Then, open the cylinder and see if it opens freely. If it does, then the problem lies in the relationship of the locking bolt and the end of the ejector rod.

Hope this helps
chris

Chris - When you say locking bolt, bolt do you mean the cylinder locking pin, at the recoil pad?

Pete

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The locking bolt is the part that enters the front end of the extractor rod.

The part at the back of the cylinder in the middle of the ratchet is the extractor rod center pin.

If the front of the extractor rod/center pin is not properly fitted, you will experience the difficult cylinder opening you described.

Pete,
I might add this to clarify: If the front of the extractor rod, the center pin, and the locking bolt, are not fitted properly in relation to each other, the cylinder could be sticky, or hard to open. This is at it's first movement of opening.

This is why I suggested the feeler gauge test. By doing this, you are essentially eliminating the relationship of the three mentioned parts. Now saying this, in the real world of the revolver's operation, the locking bolt has to be locked into the end of the ejector rod to keep the cylinder in its proper aligned place.

This is much easier to demonstrate in person than to describe in print, especially if the nomenclature isn't known too well.

Hope this helps
chris

Boy, do I feel dumb. "The extractor rod", the thing toward the barrel you push to extract the empties, right? Well, I couldn't push the .004 feeler gauge, so I open the cylinder and inserted the feeler gauge and closed the cylinder, then I was able to push the cylinder latch and open the cylinder with ease. I take it that there is where the problem resides. If so, what is the solution? Thanks.

Pete

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NRA, GOA Lifer

The end you push to extract rounds you take a file and give it two licks with it and try it out and see if it opens OK, if not give it two more lick with the file and try again till it opens OK. Then dress it up a little bit on the end.

You get a new center pin and fit it (trim the muzzle end) so when the recoil shield end is flush with the ratchet hub, the muzzle end sticks out of the extractor rod .015" - .020".

Since I don't know what I'm doing, I think I'll be better off selling it at a very reasonable price, hopefully to someone who knows these things, or trade it for another SS snub nose in excellent mechanical condition

Pete

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I could not fix it myself, but S&W offered to fix it for me. Thank you, Cary, for suggesting to send it back to S&W... we have such a helpful group here. Thanks all.

Pete

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NRA, GOA Lifer

Pete,

Clearly your choice. But sending it back to S&W will be fairly expensive (just the shipping both ways will cost you an arm and a leg) for a very simple fix.

To help with correct terminology:

M-60 Parts

If the extractor rod (Part #15) is tight as you say it is, the center pin (Part #6) must come at least flush with the end of the extractor rod when the pin is pressed flush with the extractor (Part #17). This is easy to check. Just press the rounded part of the pin where it comes through the extractor with something flat. If the rod doesn't come completely through, it will not release from the locking bolt (Part #31). As others have indicated, a couple of file strokes, or a few passes on a stone and you have just saved at least $75-100 and not tied up your revolver for several weeks.

Thanks Jepp - S&W agreed to check it out and fix it under warranty. Free shipping both ways.

Pete

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NRA, GOA Lifer