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  #1  
Old 03-26-2011, 11:47 AM
palgeno palgeno is offline
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Default Bullet jump-bound cylinder

I posed this question on another forum, and got a couple of replies....seemed like dangerous methods of solving this situation. It would be a dangerous problem to solve for sure. Perhaps you guys might have ideas:

What if you get bullet jump (more likely in a boomer like .454 or .500, etc.)and it binds the cylinder of your revolver with live rounds still present? I have not had this happen yet, but someday.....?????
What is the proper procedure for removal?
(I once had a fired case from a hot load stuck in my 629 and sent the gun to S&W for removal...great service.)
Gene
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:37 PM
john323 john323 is offline
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Take a jewelers saw and cut the bullet in half. You would then be able to open the cylinder and with a driving rod remove the rest of the bullet.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:32 PM
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Since you say bullet jump I have to assume you mean a bullet that is still not aligned with the barrel, correct?

Pull the hammer back slightly which will release the cylinder stop. Rotate the cylinder backward a bit and then simply open the cylinder normally and unload the cartridge.

John323, I certainly hope you never have the problem and try your method as there is no way to do it this way without causing serious damage to the gun.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:09 PM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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Depending on which bullet has jumped crimp it may or may not be possible to simply open the cylinder. Due to the direction of rotation of the cylinder in a standard S&W odds are that increased that the jumped round will lay on the wrong side of the barrel.

In that case I can see only three options. One is to use a jewelers saw as suggested, used with care it should be possible to cut the nose so that it will clear the barrel without marking up the cylinder.

The second option is to remove the sideplate and pull the hammer and trigger. If the bullet hasn't jumped far enough that it will still clear the frame below the barrel, removing the trigger, hand, and cylinder stop will allow the cylinder to be rotated so that jumped round can be swung through that opening while opening the cylinder.

Final option is one that would make me a bit nervous. In that case running a screw into the bullet with a cable attached should make it possible to pull the bullet from the cylinder. However, before starting the hammer and trigger would have to be removed along with the cylinder stop so that it will spin free and allow the cylinder to be positioned so that the bullet will clear the frame as it's pulled. Naturally, I don't like the idea of fooling with a live round in this manner, however if non sparking screw and tools are used it's probably fairly safe.
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:16 PM
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First thing, Take the main spring out and the hammer. second is to take a feeler gauge and put under the brass, not the primer. Then take a wood dow and push the bullet back .
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Old 03-26-2011, 05:46 PM
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I love the internet! Is this a trick question?

Well, if the hacksaw don't work, and the cylinder won't turn
just use a cleaning rod and tap the bullet back into the case?

If the bullet slips the case under recoil the slightest bump will reset it into the case.

Extra personal info....
I have a cleaning rod with me because it's happened to me......
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:20 PM
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Gentlemen,

In 1974 or 1975 when I was still new to reloading I did have to learn the hard way how much crimp was necessary for 240-260 gr. bullets but never noticed a problem opening the cylinder so I'm trying to figure out why an unnoticable problem requires extensive fiddle-diddle gunsmithing to fix. I think the answer is the bullet's ogive leaves enough clearance to open the cylinder far enough to depress its locking bolt after which the ogive's contact with the barrel will rotate the cylinder backward as it is opened. I may have rotated the cylinder backward conciously or unconciously as I opened it.

Of course I was limited to puny little .44 magnums so 500 Magnum Nut may have jumped his bullets further out of their cases than I did.

I'm not sorry I can't recall in any more detail. I'll bet you guys forget a few of the details of today's reloading projects in 36-37 years as well.

Best Regards,
Gil
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:04 PM
palgeno palgeno is offline
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Default Bound cylinder..jumped bullet

OK, Guys---Thanks for the thoughts. This was a question perhaps without a good answer. .... I have a few of my own ideas on how to approach this problem, but wanted to solicit others.
What if the jumped bullet is in a round say in 6 o'clock position and you can't reach the bullet to tap it back? Reversing the cylinder sounds like the best idea in order to reach the front of the bullet...I didn't know you could do that without harming the lockwork.
Gene

Last edited by palgeno; 03-26-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:15 PM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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I suspect that any rounds that jump will be those sitting up towards the barrel. Due to the position of the grip bleow the bore axis these guns do rotate in response to recoil, which means the rounds higher up will move a greater distance. For the first shot, that means that the round on either side of the barrel could jump, after that the odds are it'll be the round to the right of barrel.

Now, one thought that just came to me is that the cylinder stop is spring loaded. So, inserting a shim between the cylinder and the stop should allow the cylinder to rotate in the reverse direction. If that can be done, and the bullet hasn't moved enough to hit the frame at the 6 o'clock opening, it should then be a pretty simple operation to get the cylinder open. May not work in every case but it's what I'd try first.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:58 PM
k22fan k22fan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palgeno
[...] What if the jumped bullet is in a round say in 6 o'clock position and you can't reach the bullet to tap it back? [...] Gene
Gene, If the bullet that moved out of its case was in the 6 O'clock position its movement would be stopped by the frame and it could only put some drag resistance on opening the cylinder. As Scooter wrote, but apparently not clearly enough, the rounds that have been subjected to the most recoild jolts are the ones that will have jumped crimp. Ordinarily that puts the crimp jumping bullet next it line to fire.

It appears that we're all spending too much time at our computers and not enough at the range.

Gil
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullseye Smith View Post
First thing, Take the main spring out and the hammer. second is to take a feeler gauge and put under the brass, not the primer. Then take a wood dow and push the bullet back .

If you are going to do this why not just strip the lockwork completely and the cylinder will rotate freely either direction? There is no reason to "tap the bullet in", just open the cylinder.

And, B.E., this isn't directed at you! Several are not reading the question! The OP is asking about a bullet that has jumped crimp, not a squib that is bridging the barrel-cylinder gap. Usually this happens after 3-4 rounds have been fired, you won't notice it until the round that has jumped crimp is the next one to come under the hammer when it interfers with the barrel shank.

The biggest thing I find wrong with most of the responses here is that most posters are not sufficiently familiar with the mechanics of a S&W revolver to be giving any advice at all on repairs, clearing stoppages, etc. People, you need to figure how these things work first!
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Old 03-27-2011, 05:10 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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Maybe we're spending too much time making up "I suspect" imaginary answers to hypothetical questions. As you hold the gun shooting it, the round that can have the bullet tie up the cylinder is at 2 o'clock. Particularly on a big bore you have enough bullet still outside the frame to reach "in" the cylinder throat and push it back in enough to free the cylinder. The primer won't be close to aligned with the firing pin.
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