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Old 03-30-2011, 08:08 PM
Wee Hooker Wee Hooker is online now
Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done! Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done! Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done! Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done! Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done!  
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Default Trigger Improvement on new SW1911. Done!

First, I’m not proposing anybody modify any of their guns (especially carry guns) but figured since triggers are a FAQ, I’d share my experience. That said, here are words on improving the trigger on my latest SW 1911, 299 target model.
When I got the gun, the trigger was about as expected /what I had in my other SW1911’s as far as “pull quality”. About 4# 12 oz and reasonably crisp. What I didn’t like was the free play this trigger had. i.e. It could move the trigger blade in all 3 directions about 0.025”. Not horribly sloppy but distracting and certainly not as precise in fit as my other early production SW1911’s. I had heard about these “loose triggers” on the SW 1911 line but never experienced one until this purchase.
So, here is what I did.
First I I took a pencil and marked where the trigger shoe met/was covered by the frame. Then I took some basic measurements ( with calipers) on for/aft play to ID how much slack I needed to take out.
Next, I disassembled the gun down to it’s minimal basic components and got the trigger out. It was my first time doing this with a 1911 so I was a bit nervous. However with the wonders of the internet and some good advice here, I had the trigger out in short time. From there I used my calipers to check (and record) the rest of the trigger shoe dimensions.
Now it was time to fatten the trigger up in the right places. I roughed up a few spots on the shoe & bow that I wanted to build up with JB Weld. ( Being sure that any areas that got built up, would not be over the pencil/visible line.). A swap of alcohol to clean then a couple of small dabs of mixed JB and the 15 hr cure time wait was on.
See attached pics of JB build-up:

Note it’s in very small quantities and that I extended the triggers top and bottom bearing surfaces for a smooth, distributed contact area.
After letting the trigger set for a day, the fitting started. I simply got out a jewelers file and started filing the JB spots until I had overall and uniform dimensions of 0.015” side to side and 0.025” top to bottom over the bare/raw trigger. For the for/aft play, I filed the JB at the base of the trigger on the bow to about 0.30 over. I took my time and assured things staye square.
File a few swipes, measure, trial fit, repeat. The whole trigger fitting process took maybe 30 min. ( BTW: YES I know I could have just replaced the trigger but I liked the style of this one and wanted to test/practice my fitting skills. New trigger was plan B.)
AS my last improvement, on reassembly, I replaced the sear spring with a Cylinder and Slide spring (CS094)designed to lighten pull.
Results: The trigger now has only the SLIGHTEST play side to side and the slack top-bottom and fore/aft is gone completely. Yet, it’s pull quality is not hampered by the mod at all. Pull is actual down to a equally crisp 3# 9 oz which is a little better than a 25% reduction. I’m very happy with the results . $7 and a hour well spent IMHO.
FWIW, I’ve since installed that same CS Sear spring in two other S&W 1911’s with similar results.
hth somebody

Last edited by Wee Hooker; 03-30-2011 at 08:14 PM.
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