S&W model 19 and 66 whats the Cylinder gap specs?
My 66-5 less then 100 38spl thur it and no 357mag have gap of
.006
My 66-2 well used had .001 and I put a endshake bearing in .004 and now the gap is .05
my 19-3 then I got it had .000 gap and put a endshake bearing in .004 and now its gap is .006

Does this sound about right?

I always check my B/C gap with the cylinder pressed towards the rear, that allows me to have a good idea of the B/C gap if a shim is needed.

When checking for end shake, I would push the cylinder forward and check the gap again. If the cylinder is hitting the barrel, add shims until there is some clearance present and then re-measure the end shake and add the stackup of shims to the remaining dimension for end shake.

As for a target for these dimensions, my preference is end shake between 0.002 and 0.001 inch and a B/C gap between 0.008 and 0.005 inch. As for ideal, that would be an end shake between 0.0005 and 0.001 inch and a B/C gap right at 0.005 inch, however ideals are only very rarely met. In addition, what you are shooting is a factor on hom much end shake is acceptable. In a 22 caliber there is so little recoil that end shake of 0.003 to 0.004 inch really isn't worth worrying about, however in a 44 Magnum that same amount of end shake will cause a rapid increase in the end shake do to the cylinder behaving like a slide hammer. For the hard hitting calibers, it's best to spend the time to get the end shake as close to zero as possible without causing the cylinder to bind.

It's also a good idea to close the yoke without a cylinder installed and check to see if the screw that retains it eiher needs replacing or the end peened slightly. Ideally you want just a slight hint of drag when opening an empty yoke.

so the m19 I got when you push the thumbpiece and then you have to push the cylinder back to get it to open.

gap cylinder to barrel would not gage. So I tryed endshake bearing .006 that was too much chould not open and close it.
So I went down to .004 bearing
so now I have Cylinder to barrel .006 gap and .003 endshake

So when I shoot lead bullets it starts spitting, jacketed rounds only a little on just about ever other round.

Is this bad or ok?

It's not okay.

You probably have other problems than end shake and barrel/cylinder gap if it's spitting bullet metal.

If you have a range rod, check barrel/chamber alignment on all chambers.
If it doesn't gage right, or you don't have a range rod, send the gun in to S&W for repair.

Still working on the 19 does any one have shims to spare?

Brownells has them .

So last time I did it wrong
S&W model 19 and 66 whats the Cylinder gap specs?
My 66-5 less then 100 38spl thur it and no 357mag
.0025 and .0055 gap .003

My 66-2 well used
.001 and .005
endshake bearing in .004 and now.002 to .0055 gap .0025

m 19-3 super well used could not open without pushing back on cylinder .000 to.006 gap of .006
put a .004 bearing in .003 to .009 gap .006
does fine with jacketed bullets but with lead bullet it has a little lead discharge from that gap.
should I try one more bearing .002?

Years ago, S&W held the barrel/cylinder gap to much closer specs then today.
Today, S&W will pass as "in spec" gaps as big as 0.012".

Traditionally all revolvers of any make were considered to be good with a gap ranging from 0.004" to 0.008" as a maximum.
A gap of 0.005" to 0.006" is considered to be "perfect".

Some people would like a slightly tighter gap, but then you may run into problems with fouling on the cylinder face and rear of the barrel causing binding.

So, a gap of about 0.005" to 0.006" is about just right.