I like the idea of removing the yoke and cylinder when cleaning, with the goal of reducing end-shake-causing wear. While the yoke barrel is easy to clean, the interior of the cylinder (cylinder tube?) is not due to the extractor rod.

Would a product like Quick Scrub III work well for cleaning this area (I have no experience with this type of product)? Or, do people remove the extractor rod to clean in there?

I've tried a few of the aerosol products on the market, but I always seem to go back to Outer's Nitro solvent, Hoppe's #9, or GI Cleaner, Rifle Bore.
In the nearly 50 yrs I've been shooting revolvers, about the only time I've felt compelled to disassemble an extractor assembly was after buying an old gun neglected for decades (for cleaning), or to repair damage. I can't remember ever having that area foul badly enough to disassemble (except black powder, of course).
Sluice it, shake out and mop up the dirty sluice, oil it, and you'll probably be fine.

Larry

I've been cleaning them for years. This is how I do it.

Remove the yoke screw and pull the yoke and cylinder off the gun. Keep the cylinder on the yoke at all times while brushing the cylinder out. This is to prevent junk from entering the inner cylinder area where the yoke barrel rides.
Once all the brushing is done, then you can seperate the parts and finish wiping the parts off. I use Break free and rinse the cylinder out and then fit the yoke on and off until the yoke barrel comes out clean. Final wipe and put the gun back together.

Don't remove the extractor rod for normal cleaning.

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NRA Benefactor Member

Just a blast of contact cleaner seems to do all that is necessary. If you want to limit yoke wear trim back the yoke to allow installing a .004" endshake shim (Power's calls them "cylinder bearings"). It will act as a bearing surface and prevent the end of the yoke from wearing a groove in the cylinder surface. Helps keep cylinder endshake in spec.

The inner area is more like a wheel bearing which needs initial grease but does not need routine cleaning, even under heavy use. I shoot a lot of rounds through revolvers in competition, and for routine weekly cleaning don't even remove the yoke from the gun.
I do pull the yoke and slide the cylinder off less frequently to wipe clean and re-grease the areas you can reach.

I don't like spraying cleaners into recesses, which in my opinion would be like spraying cleaner into a wheel bearing, washing out the grease in it. If you really want to clean and lube the inner area (after tens of thousands of rounds), then take it completely apart, wipe clean and re-grease. Otherwise, leave it alone.
The endshake comes about from the pounding of firing, not the minor rubbing of turning the cylinder, anyway.

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Science plus Art

For whatever reason it forms the yoke wears a groove into the cylinder and endshake shims will prevent the groove from forming. A drop of oil is all the "inner area" needs for lube. There's certainly nothing "wrong" with using grease but if your shooting sports encompass fast DA shooting grease will give the trigger pull a sluggish feel.

Ever try Brownells Action Lube? I much prefer it to oil in our hot climate. and it does not drag.
I use it in the model 66 I'm running in IDPA/SSR now. By the way, that gun has endshake shims in it--lots of rounds through it over the years.

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Science plus Art

No, I haven't. Will take a look at it. I use Rem Oil or Mobil 1.

First thing I do with a new gun is trim and square the yoke and install an endshake shim.