Gunsmiths: Just got a used gun show 686-1 on Saturday. It shoots great, except for one flaw. When pulling the trigger rapidly in DA, the cylinder stop fails to pop into place to hold the cylinder. When firing SA, or slow DA, it works fine. I have taken the side plate off, and thoroughly cleaned everything, which is pretty much the limit of my experience.

Can someone tell me:

What is causing this problem?

Is this a fairly "easy" fix at home?

If so, what are the steps and parts required?

If not, what's a ball park cost for a gunsmith?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

Does the cylinder stop stick below the window in the frame? If so it needs to be fitted. The trigger should only pull the cylinder stop down enough to let the cylinder notch pass. The stop should not travel below the window. It's not necessarily hard to fit the stop, but unless you have the tools or training it would be best to have it done by someone who has both.

KAC

The stop doesn't go below the window- there's a little of it sticking above the level of the frame. It will immediately pop into proper position by slightly turning the cylinder clockwise. It doesn't happen often-just occasionally in DA mode, when pulling the trigger "quickly". Just seems like something occasionally "catches" it in DA mode (trigger hook?), and keeps it from popping up and catching the cylinder.

You may need to replace the spring. The clockwise turn, if viewed from the rear of the revolver, would indicate that the cylinder is over rotating, or traveling past the stop. This could happen with a weak cylinder stop spring.

KAC

KAC- That's what I've been thinking. After examining how these parts interact, I thought about replacing that spring, and polishing the cylinder stop so it moves more freely. How difficult is it to get there?

You will need to take out the hammer, rebound slide and trigger before you can get to the cylinder stop. To get the stop out you will need a couple of small screwdrivers. Use one of the screwdrivers to press the stop down below the window and use the other one to lift up on the stop until it is past the window. Move one of the screwdrivers to the spring, compress it slightly towards the stop and move the stop and spring up together and remove. It sounds harder than it is. When reinstalling, put the spring into the stop, place the slotted hole of the stop onto the stop pin, align the stop so that it will move into the frame, compress the spring and press the stop into place, pushing the spring into place as you do. Check for free movement, replace all the other parts and test.

KAC

KAC- Thanks for the info! I believe I'll play it safe, and take it to a gunsmith. I appreciate your replies, since I have a better understanding of what's involved.

Took a chance and did it myself! Couldn't have done it without the "Rebound Tool" from Midway. This thing works great! Took everything apart, replaced the spring, polished some of the surfaces while in there. Works great!

Just got in from the range. KAC's diagnosis of a weak cylinder stop spring was dead on. After replacing it yesterday, no problems whatsoever today. Shot a range of ammo from 38 spl target 148gr HBWC's to .357 Mag 125gr SJWC. This 686 is really a nice revolver!

It's a great feeling when you complete a project like that for the first time. Glad it all worked out.

KAC

KAC- Thank you VERY much for your diagnosis, and words of encouragement! I'd much rather order a few parts and tools than send a gun "away from home". This forum is GREAT for good information, and interesting conversation. Thanks again!

REPLACE THE STOP

Fran- Sounds like good advice-part ordered today. Hope to install next week. Thanks for the feedback!

On a gun that is shot fast DA very regulary the cylinder stop and spring are expendable parts. My competition guns get them replaced yearly. The MIM cylinder stops are almost always a "drop in".

Tomcatt-Thanks for the info. How often should the cylinder stop be replaced if just target shooting in SA? Is there an indication of wear that signals replacement?

Target shooting, SA, I would expect it to last almost forever.

That sounds good! I plan to replace the cylinder stop and spring in my 66-1 as well. Thanks to all who offered advice and input!

Cylinder stop came in today! Just replaced it a few minutes ago. As Tomcatt said, it was a "drop in", and fit perfectly. The cylinder tolerances seem tighter, and the timing is excellent. Thanks again to all who offered advice on this project! I feel like I now have a "new" S&W 686!

Since everything went so well on my 686, I decided to replace the cylinder stop and spring on my 66-1 also. Just got in, and this went just as well as the 686! I appreciate all on this Forum!