hello all, got a model 19 with a stuck cylinder. wont open. is there a trick to get it to open w/o damaging the gun. thanks, john.

It's probably hanging up in the front. The ejector rod may have backed out a bit or the spring loaded thing in the barrel shroud that goes into the front of the ejector rod when the gun is closed may be gummed up with old oil. Use a small tool and see if you can move the thing forward out and away from the ejector rod.
Once you get it open gently check to see that the ejector rod is snug.

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Lynnie, Professional Pest

empty, or loaded......with live rounds, or empty cases......i would approach each differently.

Semper Fi

live rounds loaded. thanks.

most have done some big time shooting ?

The easy first thing to try is to tighten the ejector rod, with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction. It has a left-hand thread, so it tightens clockwise when viewed from the back of the gun. Let us know if you try this and it works.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Wedge a .004 feeler gauge between the locking bolt and the ejector rod, then open the cylinder. This action should NOT require you to have your finger on the trigger NOR the hammer.

The locking bolt is the part that is underneath the barrel. It is spring loaded. The ejector rod is hollow with the center pin inside of it, and the front of the ejector rod is where the locking bolts slips into it. The locking bolt should have a bevel on it, so you should be able to wedge the .004 feeler gauge between them.

Hope this helps
chris

thanks, john.

I'm thinking the feeler gauge routine and a brief description of how to tighten the ejector rod should be a sticky. This may be the most common pre-lock failure of S&Ws.

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I need ammo, not a ride.

Is that an internal lock gun... you know the one that locks up and you can't fire, so no one wants to buy them..... cause you can't depend on them in a critical life and death situation...

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Jack C

Thanks guys. I had the same problem. Stuck cylinder. Following your advice gently screwed the ejector rod back in (not easy to do) and the cylinder opened right up.

Seems to be a fairly common occurrence. My Mod 29 occasionally locks up because the ejector rod loosens up. I re-tighten it as tight as I can by hand, don't want to use pliers or apply loctite to it.

Use a piece of heavy leather such as belting. Wrap it around the extractor rod, clamp in your vise and tighten by holding the cylinder. You can't overtighten this way, but if you just get it good and snug it will rarely loosen while shooting. The knurling is strictly decorative, not to use to tighten the extractor rod!

It is easy to tighten the extractor rod in the gun if it comes loose and you can't open the cylinder. Simply place your thumb on the knurled end of the extractor rod, pull the hammer back just far enough to unlatch the cylinder stop. With your third hand turn the cylinder in it's normal direction until you can't keep the extractor rod held. Trying to tighten by turning the extractor rod, especially on a shrouded barrel, is extremely difficult.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

Geez. I bought a police trade-in Model 10-8, shot just over 50 rounds with no issue, then the cylinder would not release. Came on here and searched, found this thread, and luckily found that the ejector rod sure enough had unscrewed enough to lock the cylinder. Also, more importantly, this thread let me know it was a left-handed thread !

thanks

Yup, it's a case of "Lefty - Tighty, Righty - Loosey".

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Before you start to snug or tighten the ejector rod, place empty cartridges in the cylinder to protect or prevent any damage to the extractor.

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That's what we do!

Good tip; and since most have the problem with cases in the chambers when it sticks, it isn't thought about.

Thanks also to the other responders.

I'm sitting here with five live rounds in an S & W .357 Magnum
detective's special and the cylinder won't open.

I was so happy (and fortunate) to find the Smith and Wesson Forum and you knowledgeable people...

I couldn't find a set of feeler gauges in three tool boxes so I used a utility knife blade, and just as Chris, S&WRevolverman said, the locking bar moved back and the cylinder opened right up. What a relief.

I followed the other's advice and tightened the ejector rod, left-hand thread, thank you again, and it works fine.

You're fine people.

Butch

If his cylinder is stuck so that it won't open, How can he insert snap caps or fired cases into the chambers?

Larry

The fired cases are for final tightening of the rod. They aren't needed for backing off the rod enough to get the cylinder open.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Just to complete the story, S&W switched extractor rods from RH threads to LH threads in 1961, so anything newer will have LH threads. There will be a small circumferential groove machined below the knurled rod tip to indicate that.