I just purchased what I thought was a good deal on a 18-3. Paid $450 and it is in nice shape. Probably 95% blueing and fairly tight. The only problem (besides that fact that the owner painted the front sight white) is that with a good push on the cocked hammer, it will fall with my finger outside of the trigger guard. I am now worried that someone performed a home "trigger job". Any suggestions as to how to address the problem? Is this a "send it back to smith and pay to have it fixed right" or is this something that I should order a new hammer and trigger or is there something else that I can do? Thank you!

This is called "push off" and needs to be fixed, dropping the gun may also release the hammer. If you find replacement parts (hammer and trigger) they will likely drop in or only require minor fitting.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Do you happen to have a good source for the parts? If I have s&w refinish the revolver, do you think there is a chance that they will replace the parts due to the safety issue?

Numrich or e-gunparts.com, or poppertsgunparts.com should have them. Be sure to specify the 18-3, it has a flat hammer face and a separate firing pin unlike centerfire guns. The factory may not have the correct parts any more, best to call customer service before sending it to them.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Before you go buying trigger and hammer parts, check out the sticky on fixing "push off". Maybe just some stoning on the trigger will fix the problem.

Hope this helps
chris

I don't understand why you would even consider having a gun refinished if it were 95%. Can you post some photos? I would start with a good internal cleaning and see what happens. Just my thoughts. Kyle

That's good advice.

+1
Try the fix. You'll be amazed what a little (very little) "correct" stoning can do.

Yes, I didn't mention you could have a (skilled) gunsmith fix the current parts. I recently had the hammer and trigger replaced on a similar vintage K frame .38; they were a drop-in fit with a perfect trigger pull, so if you have the parts that would be the easy and most reliable fix, I think.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Only problem I can forsee with ordering the parts(if available) is that they might not correct the push-off issue, and then what? Do you break out the stones and attempt to fit, or send them back to where you got them. I wouldn't think they'd be returnable if you have worked on them. There is minor variation in frame dimension, hammer and trigger stud location and other factors to consider in older model revolvers. In the "olden" days, this was compensated for by the technicians who assembled them by hand. Back when I lived near the Smith factory, I took guns in to have target hammers and triggers installed, which they usually did, while you wait. The gent that usually did this had complete hammer and trigger assemblies at his disposal to "try" in your gun, until he found the right combination of tolerances to make it right, and believe me, he was good at it. So, not having that option, I would call to see if they still have the parts for your 18 and ask their advice. Might save a lot of time and hassle in the long run. I recently sent a revolver back to Colt for a barrel change, problem was they didn't have any more barrels in the length I wanted. Sorry for the long story. Whatever you decide, I wish you good luck and success with it. I do know that a few thousandths of an inch can make a big difference, good, or bad! Take care, sir.

I am going to try to give S&W a call on Monday and see what they say.... any idea what the turn around time is right now on a repair?

I have decided to try "stoning" the hammer. Can I use a regular stone that you would buy from Ace Hardware or is there something special that I need to look for? Thank you.

You may want to try stoning the trigger. Check faqs.
Norton India stone 6" medium grit.
I got mine from Brownells but Midway may have them also.

NORTON 6" X 1/2" X 1/2" INDIA STONE - Brownells

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.

Replace the trigger rebound SPRING. Shortening this spring too much
in an attempt to lighten the trigger pull will allow the hammer to push off.

The simple test for this is; work the d.a. and if it feels too light the springs have been modified.

If you need one P.M. me. They are about $3. and will most likely fix the problemo.


Allen Frame

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NRA cert.instructor&R.S.O.

Thanks for the hint. I tried the double action and it does not seem light. Would you then stone the hammer and trigger or just the hammer and see how it turns out?

I used about 4 or 5 strokes with a stone, put it back together and no more "push off" issue. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Saved me a few bucks and I understand a bit more about how a revolver works...