I picked up an orphan 3" Model 10-8 last winter for a good price with the intention of using it for a customized revolver project. It's obvious someone has been tinkering with the innards of the gun, both the rebound slide and hand appear to have an engine turned finish and upon initial inspection the rebound spring had been trimmed and the edges of the mainspring had been ground with a bench grinder. I have replaced the mainspring with a Wolff power rib piece and installed a factory S&W rebound spring. The action is nice but occasionally the action binds. Cycling it with the sideplate off it appears that the cylinder stop doesn't disengage before the hand tries to rotate the cylinder.

The Kuhnhausen manual description of fitting the cylinder stop makes me wonder if it's something I should attempt myself. Is it really that complicated?

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Checking the fit of the cylinder stop is not that complicated, given that you have already been alert enough to details to note that the mainspring and rebound slide springs have been altered.

Fitting a cylinder stop involves light stoning of the stop to fit the cylinder stop notches, and careful stoning of two contact surfaces to provide proper timing during the DA cycle. Studying the old stop and where it binds will give you the proper clues to where and how much to stone.

Thanks for the reply John. When I cycle the action the cylinder stop seems to have more fore and aft movement than vertical movement, I guess that's why the cylinder stop hole is elongated. Considering what's been done to other internal parts, I wonder if the tab on the trigger that engages the stop or the notch on the stop have been molested too.

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"Shall not be infringed"

Get a new cylinder stop. The new MIM stops are almost always a drop-in. If you're lucky, all will be well and it will work fine and just need minor stoning/polishing for a smooth function. If you're not lucky, it won't work because the trigger's cylinder stop contact surfaces have been stoned excessively and you'll be replacing the trigger.

If you don't have Jerry Miculek's "Trigger Job" video it's worth getting.

Improper fitting or excessive wear at the point of the trigger nose where it engages the notch of the cylinder stop is what gives improper release.

It helps if you have another K frame model to open up and compare the wear points and what was stoned to establish correct timing.

The real benefit of the Miculek DVD is the close up images he shows on key mating surfaces. Using this as a guide, you will be able to see if some have been "overworked" with a stone.

I started with the Kuhnhausen book but find Jerry's DVD a much better resource.

Everybody raves about the dvd, I guess it's time to order one.

I can disassemble another K frame to compare wear points, it sounds like checking the trigger nose is a good place to start. Replacing the trigger as well as the stop wouldn't be the worst thing, I'd swap to a serrated trigger like the one on my Model 64-2. I assume a hammer and trigger from a SS K frame will also fit a Model 10.

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"Shall not be infringed"

A .265 serrated trigger is coming from GB, a new cylinder stop and some other small parts are coming from Numrich. Once I pick up the dvd things can begin moving forward...

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"Shall not be infringed"

Now all you have to do is bob the hammer and install a 11lb rebound spring. convert it to 9mm and hardcrome it--PERFECT

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The absence of pain is...death

The GB seller has a factory bobbed hammer too, I'm considering it...

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"Shall not be infringed"

i HAVE BOBBED THE HAMMERS ON ALL MY 15S AND 64S i LOVE THE SMOOTH LIGHT TRIGGER PULL. I DON'T THINK SPURED HAMMERS BELONG ON SELF DEFENSE GUNS. THE TEMPTATION TO COCK THE HAMMER UNDER PRESSURE IS TO STRONG.

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The absence of pain is...death