I have a stainless gun that was originally satin. Still is but there are some variations in the finish from its days in a holster.

I want to return the finish to a uniform satin. (I realize "finish" is used incorrectly.)

How can this be done at with the best results? I searched but came up short.

Before/after pics or even pics of the process are always appreciated.

Better yet, how is it done at the factory?

Adn I thank you all.

If you're talking about this, it's a glass bead finish.



It requires a bead blasting cabinet, the correct medium and the skill to use it properly.

__________________
"I also cook."

Thank you Chad but I am talking about a satin finish. Much differernt from the very nice glass bead blasted revolver in your photo.

Satin must be the result of a sort of rubbed abrasive like steel wool; I'm just not sure how to do it right. My 657 left the factory with a satin finish; not a bead blast.

You could try experimenting with different ScotchBrite pads on a scrap piece of steel until you find the grade that most closely matches the finish on your gun.

Thank you db. Anyone try this? I'm curious to see your results.

The grey Scotchbrite pads give the best match to the factory finish. Stay with the same "grain" of when it originally finished.

You want the 07448 part number. Just to give you an idea, here is a current auction grey scotchbrite 07448 pad

You may want to actually contact Smith & Wesson and ask them how THEY produced the factory satin finish.

Reading about scraping along with the grain and using the grey scotchbrite pads gives me the creeps.

Before taking any action, find out how it was originally and properly done.

Can these be bought locally or only available by mail??

You should be able to find them at any well-stocked auto/paint supply store.

S&W likely uses Scotch-Brite or something similar.

Most factory satin finishes are produced by vibratory methods with different kinds of grit and burnishing media.
Kind of like a huge cartridge case cleaner.
I'd guess,,but I really don't now for sure, that S&W uses the same processes. It's widley used to de-burr freshly machined parts too.

They may well touch up the final product with a quick rub down with something like scotchbrite at final assembly.

For the DIY'r the grey color pads will work well. The maroon to even out the finish first and remove some of the heavier scratches.
Wet or dry paper first for the deeper nicks to avoid dishing the surface with the soft pads chasing after the deep ones.

Keep the polishing in a randon pattern for a matte finish. Don't follow the lines of the parts as you might do in polishing for reblueing.

The trick,if there really is one, is for there not to be any strike lines from the polishing showing. No direction showing a polishing scratch pattern,,completely random from all directions on all parts.

That's why the vibratory method works so well,,and efficiently in a factory setting.

Oil coated parts under a very fine wire wheel at slow speed is fast and efficient too. Will give you anything from a low gloss burnished look (looks great under a case colored finish) to a dull matted finish.
All depends on the wire size, speed, oil, pressure applied and the material you're working on.

I just looked at the ebay link Free shipping's nice. Would it be used just like any other scouring pad ( circular/straight, etc. )? It would be a nice tool to have, but..no experience with it.

Kinda expensive, or not?

That eBay link is for a case (60 pads). You really only need one or two pads, maybe a couple bucks at the store. Home Depot may sell them.

As for using them, they're similar to the scouring pads you have in the kitchen for dishes, nothing to it. Just practice on a scrap piece of steel until you figure out how you want to do it on your gun.

I only listed the eBay link to show you the correct item.

Google is your friend. You can buy individual pads, but I have found the shipping is pretty steep that way. I have seen maroon at Home Depot but never the grey pads.

Here is a link for 1 pad (plenty for your handgun).

Scotch Brite 7448 pad

Great info coming in. It sounds like a trial and error process so I will test various methods.

If anyone has photos of a job they've done, that may speed things along of the rest of us. I'm sure someone has done some touch-up on stainless along the way (aside from high-polish).

The tumbling idea sounds like it would product the most uniform coverage. Any ideas for media? Harbor Freight sells ceramic media but it may not get into the crevices.

If you are talking about the 686-type finish, I think the frame and cylinder are buffed separately with a buffing wheel. Call S&W customer service and ask them.
I'm sure the factory could rebuff your gun for a reasonable price.

I'd certainly lean on the side of a S&W factory job as opposed to a home grown Scotchbright make-shift measure.

__________________
Laus Deo

I have touched up my 686 and similarly finished guns by using a fine sandpaper, going lightly in the same direction as the existing finish. I then go over it again with a really fine crocus cloth, and finally a light polish with Flitz or a similar polish. The goal is to duplicate the finish that you see on other areas of the gun. Maintaining the proper direction of movement with the various media is important to getting a good match-up.

no worry it is stainless steel, the same color all the way through....all kinds of ways to dull, matte,satin finish, the factory finish is polished on wheels with a grit that does NOT make it shine,I 've come close with a Cratex wheel ( fine) works for us, as has the 3M scotch brite pads, gotta "practice" try and few different colors and all depends on just "how hard" YOU decide to push on the pad....no need to get carried away, you just want to 'blend' in the shiny edges and parts that get that way from a holster........yes, we've seen some jobs done with a 'wet/dry' paper,again, takes time & practice to get the "feel" and make it 'blend' in to look like "original" if any doubt, contact S&WE and they will be happy to redo the finish, plus shipping to & from, may get a bit pricy,won;t know till YOU call them and ask.............
now if you want to make it "shiny" the world is at your fingertips with all the polishes that are out there, and again, it is 'stainless' steel, and if you don't like how it looks . do it again, or in some other way...just stay away from the "power " hand tools, and you'll be just fine.............

__________________
dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA

I just ordered a set of 3 at Amazon.

Amazon.com: 3M Automotive (MMM37448) Scotch-Brite Ultra FIne 6" x 9" Hand Pad - 3 Pads per Pack: Home Improvement

I have just purchased a 625-2 that was altered for PPC, notches(2) in the barrel for a ramp, and holes for a slab weight. Not a queen...

Will see what the results are..

You can also use a less aggressive media (crushed walnut hulls, for example) in your "bead" blaster, as well as playing with the pressure.

Buck

I would use a tumbler too...