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Old 09-03-2011, 10:39 AM
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busykngt busykngt is offline
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Thumbs down 1911 Mod 108282 problem - help please

Problem: slide fails to go into battery completely

History facts: My S&W Model 108282 was manufactured early in 2010-JAN date of factory test shot. It was originally bought by a fellow that did not shoot it {ever}. He did, however take very good care of it; he had it about 18 months and had field stripped it a time or two to keep it oiled / maintained. I bought the gun from him a couple of months ago. I bought four new Wilson Combat 47D magazines (it came with two factory magazines but I didn't use these).

I loaded the four Wilson magazines with PMC Bronze, 230-gr, FMJ and went to the range. I had the same problem with rounds from each magazine (so I'm pretty sure it's not the Wilsons). I would rack the first round and the gun would shoot fine for the first three or four rounds and then out of the clear blue, the slide would need a little [manual] help from me to close completely. {Very fustrating} After that, it would fire fine again for several more rounds - and then repeat the same problem.

I didn't have any problem with ejections and also no problem with loading. Each time it happened, there would be a round completely loaded and ready to fire...it's just that the slide didn't close all the way.

I field stripped the gun to clean it after shooting and everything looks good and normal to me (with my un-gunsmith trained eyes). I cleaned it throughly and put a little {very little} Tetra Gun Grease on the slide.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on with my beautiful 108282? I want it to work as good as it looks!
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:46 AM
handgunner356 handgunner356 is offline
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Several things come to mind, being a new gun it's still tight and needs a good lube and 2-300rds to break it in. Recoil spring is too light for that load and/or that load is somewhat light not giving a full slide cycle. Not having a firm grip on the gun allowing less slide energy, again not getting a full slide cycle.
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Old 09-03-2011, 10:50 AM
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SW CQB 45 SW CQB 45 is offline
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I have a colt govt that I have been shooting competively for about 5 yrs. It is a custom job and used oil exclusively since I got it customized and zero malfunctions.

I bought some slide glide grease and put it on the rails and barrel lugs. I had my first failure to feed...ever in a match last week.

All it took was a bump of the mag and it went into battery.

The only thing different was grease.

I going back to oil.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:22 PM
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Make sure the recoil spring is installed with the tight end toward the slide stop.

Ty a different magazine (e.g., Wilson). This pistol comes with Novack magazines, which tend to release the cartridge earlier than ones with parallel lips.

Check your ammo. The chamber is tight. I've had some rounds, both Winchester and Remington, fail to feed completely. The same round jammed twice, and didn't respond to a slap on the rear of the slide. The next rounds were OK.

Have a qualified gunsmith (or S&W) take a look at it. The timing could be a bit off, or the extractor needs tuning.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:50 PM
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Default THANKS for the quick responses guys

Things that seem most (more) probable:
New gun break-in period (the slide did seem a little tight to me) or try different ammo and/or magazine.
--
Things less probable (my judgment only, of course):
Limp wrist – not too likely (I’m 270#, 6’-1” grew up on a farm, lifted beehives for twenty years and shot .45s before) BUT I’ll definitely renew my concentration on that item (just to make sure).

Gun grease – had not used Tetra on the gun prior to shooting it this first time (it had only whatever kind of oil the original owner had used; I’m guessing Rem Oil). Besides Tetra is the white stuff that’s supposed to be pretty good stuff – it’s on there now so we’ll see.

Recoil Spring was (and is) installed correctly – I double checked.

Novack magazines – Is that the same as ACT-MAG Italy? That’s what my gun came with and they have the S&W logo on them at the base. They have a beautiful blued glossy finish – that’s why I didn’t use them (didn’t really want to mess them up). So I had bought the Wilson’s to use – had gotten good reports on the 47Ds from several folks. But I understand there is a Wilson magazine with a stronger spring for use primarily with +P ammo - …just wondering if that would do any good.

And last (but not least): Yes, may have to have S&W take a look at it. But that may cost me since I’m not the “original” owner (even though I’m the first to ever fire the darn thing). As I understand, their warranty is only for the original owner (and he had sent in the “registration” card).

So I guess that leaves me trying to run some different ammo through it before I spend more money on a gunsmith (no offense meant to any of you gunsmiths – you guys have saved my bacon more than once!).
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:09 PM
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Rem oil has the vicosity of water. It was made for slow moving shotgun and bolt guns. Use a heavier gun oil in all areas of metal contact such as

Barrel and barrel bushing
Barrel locking lugs
Barrel link
Slide and frame rails
Disconnector
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:08 PM
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Fastbolt Fastbolt is offline
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I'll second what SW CQB 45 wrote.

Personally, I wouldn't use Rem Oil on anything more critical than a lawnmower. To each their own.

Initial thoughts?

Use better ammunition. Really.

Make sure your wrist is locked. (Yes, a BIG strong man can still shoot with a loosely supported grip, and /or an unlocked wrist, and experience grip-stability functioning issues. Don't hold the pistol like it's a single action revolver, for instance.)

If you can't see the oil and/or grease along the length of the frame & slide rails, on the barrel (especially at the muzzle end) & full length guide rod, as well as on the pivoting barrel link ... or at least feel it with your finger tips if you touch those surfaces ... you might be running a dry gun.

Magazines ought to be fine. (I've run ACT-Mags with both the standard springs as used by S&W and with the extra power springs used by Wolff, who uses the ACT-Mags as their mag line.) However ... did you disassemble them and clean them, removing any packing/shipping oil, especially if congealed and dried inside the tube, leaving them smooth, clean & DRY inside?

Sometimes a new shooter (to a gun model/caliber) may require "break in" more than the gun. BTDT.

My SW1911SC 5" ran perfectly reliably from the very first round, digesting a number of different ball and JHP loads (4-5 JHP types, as I recall), but it was all factory-fresh, good quality ammunition. I don't use budget/bargain ammunition if at all possible, and avoid most imported ammunition. I like monotonous, boring reliability - even just for range training & practice - and if using better quality ammunition is required to help achieve that ... I'm not adverse to buying better ammo.

I also cleaned and sufficiently lubed the gun prior to its first range trip (not excessively, but sufficiently).

Just my thoughts. Dunno what's happening with your gun, though. Not there.
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Old 11-14-2011, 10:58 PM
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Arrow Should have followed up earlier to this thread...

but I just came back from shooting the SW1911 today and it reminded me about this posting some time back. Short version: I'm a happy camper now - gun now performs as expected.
--
I think it was a combination of several suggestions from you guys but mainly the oil thing. BTW, I have no proof that REM Oil was ever used on the gun - its just what I thought perhaps the original owner might have used. I did take off the Tetra gun grease and replaced it with synthetic Mobil 1 - I do believe I was running a dry gun. The Mobile 1 thing was picked up from the 1911 Forum and it has worked great. The other aspect a couple of you guys mentioned was the gun needing a "break in" period (& perhaps me, too). I'm at the 250 round mark and not experiencing the problem I had during the first 40 to 50 rounds. I did step up the quality of ammo I was using but today, I went back to the PMC ammo I had first used and the gun handles it without any problems (now).

So I owe you guys a: THANK YOU. Appreciate all the suggestions & they worked!
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Old 11-15-2011, 02:40 AM
Tyrod Tyrod is offline
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The Wilson 47D magazine kinda give up on the whole "controlled round feeding" concept. Some folks swear by 'em. Others curse 'em. The issues you are having are the perfect example of when the Wilson's don't work. I have found that the Colt military surplus style magazine gives the most reliable feeding of most any magazine for both ball and most non-rediculus hollow points, even SWC. The McCormick follower can be used reliably with colt surplus magazines if ya need 8 rounds, particularly with ball ammo. if you use ball ammo exclusively, longish parallel lips magazines are perfect. You don't even need to think about tapered lips until you go to hollow points or SWC. NOS colt military magazines (mostly fake) or modern reproductions made by Check-Mate are some of the best for general purpose use. Use the stock flat dimpled floorplate for 7 rounds or the McCormick follower with the Check-Mate magazine if ya need 8. CM45-7-S-H for stainless or CM45-7-B-H for blue. The CheckMate 8 rounders work ok, but I like the McCormak follower better.

One last item, check the extractor for burrs and such. With the slide off, insert a loaded round under the extractor in the approximate battery position and wiggle the slide about. It should take quite severe shaking to dislodge the round.

There are about 101 things that can go wrong with 1911 feeding. Only a small percentage has been discussed here. Although I respect Wilson and their parts, I'd stay away from their magazines.

P.S. If your 1911 is finicky about lube, you've got a problem.
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Last edited by Tyrod; 11-15-2011 at 02:44 AM.
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1911, cartridge, colt, extractor, gunsmith, military, remington, sw1911, sw1911sc, winchester

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