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09-06-2011, 02:32 PM
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Help, can not unscrew extractor from a K22
I bought a beautiful K22 and doing my OCD cleaning. I disassembled all I could but can not get the extractor to unscrew.
I tried locking it in a drill chuck, (yes reverse threads) and it will not budge. I have never had one not unscrew??
Please do not say these early guns have regular threads
Does it have to absolutely come out?, No not really, I shot enough cleaner in there, but I have too
Any suggestions or just leave it alone?
I can't, I can't.
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09-06-2011, 02:50 PM
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I know you just can't...;-)....but leave it alone.
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09-06-2011, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camster
I know you just can't...;-)....but leave it alone.
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Don't take a torch to it??
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09-06-2011, 03:35 PM
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1. Leave it alone.
2. Older S&Ws do have right handed threads on the extractor rod. How old is it?
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09-06-2011, 03:40 PM
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Is it an early enough gun to have the RH threads on the extractor rod?
Some people used to solve the problem of those unwinding in use by using Locktite or some other thread locking substance.
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09-06-2011, 04:01 PM
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It's a pre Model.
A K22 so it's probably 1965.
It has regular right hand threads?????
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09-06-2011, 04:10 PM
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If it's a 1965 version, it's not a "pre-model".
Edited to add - if it's not broke, don't fix it.
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09-06-2011, 04:11 PM
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I think that they changed to left handed threads sometime in the early 1960s but I'm not sure of the exact year. And if it was made in '65 it should have a model number.
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09-06-2011, 04:13 PM
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[QUOTE=Bullet Bob;136108637]If it's a 1965 version, it's not a "pre-model".
That's right. Are you sure that it's a '65 model?
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09-06-2011, 04:46 PM
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It's K645**
5 screws
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09-06-2011, 04:59 PM
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That would make it 1949ish.
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09-06-2011, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rule3
Please do not say these early guns have regular threads
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Okay, we won't say it.
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09-06-2011, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camster
That would make it 1949ish.
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Thanks, I looked at the wrong series of dates in the standard catalog. I looked at the 6 digits with a K prefix.
Actually this falls in 1948(K and 5 digits) if I am now looking at the right page
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09-06-2011, 05:17 PM
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LOL, turn your OCD loose on cleaning the chambers thoroughly (sometimes they can be a bit dirty and tight) and cleaning the backside of the grips. You know a drop or two of oil down the backside of the ejector rod is all it REALLY NEEDS.
You know what they say if it ain't broke (force it.) This post is all in jest of course but I believe the early K's were left hand.
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09-06-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by What the
You know what they say if it ain't broke (force it.) This post is all in jest of course but I believe the early K's were left hand.
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Yep, that's me. Maybe I can tighten those screws just a little, Snap, more!
I put it away in the safe.
The threat has passed (for now)
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09-06-2011, 05:59 PM
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The change from RH to LH threads on K and N frames occurred with the dash 1 and newer guns.
ALSO, S&W slightly machined down the area just behind the rod knurling on LH threaded rods so you can distinguish between the two.
Look close on dash 1 and newer models and you will see it.
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09-06-2011, 07:07 PM
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FYI, the changeover happened in 1961 and it was for ALL models. If you have a gun produced in the 1960-1964 time frame I strongly suggest checking the knurling on the ejector rod for a narrow groove just behind the knurling, it's just wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail. If it has that groove it's a left hand thread. If that groove isn't present, it's a right hand thread.
As for why it's critical to check guns produced during that transition period, S&W almost NEVER disposes of stock in their warehouse. So, it's quite possible that some calibers were produced using parts made before the change but assembled after the change.
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09-06-2011, 07:23 PM
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As it came from the factory in 1948 it should have right hand threads. Be glad you can't unscrew it, otherwise you may be dealing with the problem of keeping it tight after shooting. That is why they changed to left hand threads. I had a rod (1955 K22) that was a little chewed up by a previous owner (who must have had problems keeping it tight) and I had some trouble finding another one (right hand thread). Finally found one and it cost me around $40.
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