Last year I picked up a slightly tired 19-3, pretty obviously an ex-police duty weapon. Before committing to it I pulled the side plate to examine the internals for any work performed by Bubba. All was well in that respect. The gun had a fair amount of blue wear and some end shake and cylinder play. It also had some forcing cone erosion, but the price was reasonable and I thought it was worth sending into S&W for a checkout and keeping for a .38 Spl. shooter (no refinish, tho).

When it came back the above issues had been resolved, plus it looked like the barrel had been turned back about two turns; all the throat erosion had been removed and the breech looked pristine. Functionally I had a new gun, and it shot like one, too. I've gotten to like the thing, and rather than pay new gun prices for guns I may not like half as much I find myself considering what a Ford's nickel job would look like. (Yeah, I know, not really a great investment, and I would have a fair piece of change in a very common gun.)

What bugs me about this gun is that upon return from S&W the upper rear flat-headed side plate screw was TIGHT. I mean REALLY TIGHT! And that's after me removing and replacing it prior to purchase. When I decided to ship it in to S&W I deliberately just left it buttoned up and untouched, thinking to leave any minor stoning and spring changes for later after the factory did it's thing.

I have since worked on that screw with the proper bit, heated and cooled it, and Kroiled it. No, I have not broken or buggered it, and I am leaving it strictly alone before I do, at this point. I would like to do a little work inside, but while the action isn't as good as some K frames I know full well that the gun will work just fine for the next 50 years just as it is.

I called S&W service asking them if they had loc-tited that screw or done anything at all different with it, and the rep said no. As a matter of fact, he asked rather grumpily why I would want to take the side plate off at all. I have to admit that I really didn't blame him, considering some of the man-caused disasters they probably get to see come in for salvage. Still, it's my gun, and if I want to take it apart like a real American I have that right.

I'm just wondering WHAT the deal IS with that infernal screw. If I had never had it out at all I'd just accept it as rust, varnish, overtightened, cross-threaded, or all of those things and let S&W deal with it. As it is, I'm done tweaking on it. I might send it in to the factory for a reblue (it would serve them right!) or let Ford's fight it if they were willing.

Any thoughts or ideas?

I don't know who-did-what-to-what....but I can tell you that at this very moment I am in the midst of making a frame repair to that rear side plate hole because some idiot either glued it in, or had an oversize one "wedged" in. It would not come out either and I wound up drilling it out to discover the former owner (or whoever) had used an oversize screw and I am positive they had glued it in as well.

I have a thread in the Smithing forum titled "Snapped Side Plate Screw" just down below yours here. You can go read that and follow me through the process. I have had to install a #8 screw and am in the process (as I get time) milling it down flush with the frame to drill and tap a new screw-hole.

GOOD LUCK!

A friend brought me a 36 one day that had a screw he couldn't get to loosen. I have a 1/4" drive impact driver and one smack broke it loose. Of course it could have easily went south but I was lucky. Rather be lucky than good.... If you could find a 1/4" impact it could be worth a try....

I was not so lucky....tried the left-hand drill bit......screw snapped off even with the frame, then had to be drilled out.

I would rather leave mine lightly torqued and keep an eye on them as opposed to trying to put them in so tight they won't come out. The one under the grip can't fall out and get lost anyway and that is the one that always seems to be problematic. The side plate certainly should be firmly attached as is serves as bearing surfaces for the pins, but my gosh....they don't have to be installed that tight and certainly not with red loctite...in my opinion...not ANY grade of locktite.

I agree what you say about Locktite! I do not believe in using that product in ANY FORM, COLOR or CONFIGURATION on any firearms. On motorcycles YES, on guns NO. I have seen, heard and experienced too many problems from Locktite on guns. I would simply rather tighten a screw once in a blue moon than go through the nightmares that I have read on this and other forums.

Chief38

Called Ford's today to inquire if they would find this problematical should I decide to haul off and have a nickelling job done on this gun. They say not, and the turnaround time is quoted at 12-14 weeks.

I am sort of inclined to do this. I am a bit of a softy for good quality guns that have had their ups and downs ("projects") and somehow never got myself a nice nickelled S&W in all those years of buying guns. Not to mention that the current crop of handguns is rather uninspiring.

Of course if I had had the sense to hang on to the Model 19 I bought new in 1972 none of this would be happening now. Too soon old, too late smart...