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10-13-2011, 01:22 PM
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Not exactly a smith smithing question...
I was trying to push the divots out of my 870 mag tube using a socket (as per internet suggestions don't ask) Anyway, the divots are out, but the socket is stuck firmly in the mag tube. Anyone with any ideas or experience feel free to speak up. I need help!! UPDATE:
I finally got it after a weekend of bathing it in machine oil and tapping it around the perimeter with a brass hammer. Thanks to all who helped!!
Last edited by kscardsfan; 10-17-2011 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: update
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10-13-2011, 01:30 PM
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Would a .308 or 7.62x54r broken shell extractor work ?? I have no idea
if this will grab the (I assume) 3/8 drive opening. HTH
Chipmunk6
or a long bolt with a drop of instant adhesive on the head pulled with a
looped coathanger.
or smaller sockets and a 18"extension to push from the other end.
still pondering.....
18"&12" extension inserted in center and spun with a ratchet until unstuck.
Last edited by Chipmunk6; 10-13-2011 at 01:50 PM.
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10-13-2011, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kscardsfan
I was trying to push the divots out of my 870 mag tube using a socket (as per internet suggestions don't ask) Anyway, the divots are out, but the socket is stuck firmly in the mag tube. Anyone with any ideas or experience feel free to speak up. I need help!!
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If it was mine, I'd break out the hair dryer and some penetrating
oil. Sound like the socket has to go out the way it came in, if you can apply tapping pressure against it, it'll get easier as soon as it moves even a fraction of an inch.
Seeing as how this has turned into a project, you'll have to clean up anyway. So, try getting part of an ice-cube into the socket before you heat the tube from the outside. Might only be a .001" difference, but
you don't need much more to start the ball rolling. Hope this helps,
have had all kinds of stuck stuff as mechanic. TACC1
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10-13-2011, 02:06 PM
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Lots of 'Kroil', enough dowel material to reach it from the "opposite end" ( gotta go back out the way it came in),,,,,,a finally a BIG enough hammer,mallett to meet the challenge,,,,,,,
set the downward end onto something solid but forgiving,like a block of Delrin, or thick leather piece on a block of HARD wood........
Good luck.....................the heat works, & may help, but need too many hands,,,,,,,
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dan
NRA Benefactor,PMA
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10-13-2011, 02:36 PM
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If you ever have to raise another dent, the method I was told about and used successfully was finding a slightly undersized slug (or socket, if you will), then wraping scotch tape around it one layer at a time until the dent is gone. The tape have enough give to remove the slug without too much effort.
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Chris
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10-13-2011, 06:21 PM
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It will be a bit "fiddly" to do but I'd get a long piece of 3/8 inch threaded rod, run it through the socket and thread a nut on the end from the loading port. Then you could put a large diameter fender washer at the opposite end and use another nut to draw it out. Most hardware stores will have 3 foot lenghts of 3/8-16 threaded rod in stock as well as fender washers and nuts and you'll probably walk out with less than 10 bucks out of pocket.
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10-13-2011, 07:34 PM
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So far a lot of penetrating oil and patience while banging on it from the back side with a rod is helping the most.
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10-13-2011, 08:24 PM
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If all of the above dont work try a lead fishing sinker bounced up and down in the tube. Usually that will knock it out. Sounds like you are installing a extended mag tube...I had the same problem and made a steel bar that has a slight taper to do the job. Dont feel bad, I own a lathe been smithing for 23 years and still tried exactly what you did!!!
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10-13-2011, 08:24 PM
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Another vote for a piece of all thread, but I would rig it with a "sliding hammer" because the impact will move a tight object better than steady pull. You could use almost anything for the sliding hammer portion, block of wood, piece of pipe, etc.
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10-14-2011, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jepp2
Another vote for a piece of all thread, but I would rig it with a "sliding hammer" because the impact will move a tight object better than steady pull. You could use almost anything for the sliding hammer portion, block of wood, piece of pipe, etc.
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+1
IMO, the slide hammer effect will likely work best if it's really tight.
I've seen a socket used before but here's my preferred method; I use an appropriate diameter piece of discarded steel shaft with the keyway cut the full length and with a slight taper either cut or ground on one end. While bored one evening I even welded the swaging end with hard-surface welding rod and dressed it with a grinder. There's no visible wear to the shaft and I've done many 870 mags.
This allows to swage one side at a time. I still have to dress it up with a dremel to eliminate any chance of the follower hanging up but I think it's better than drilling them and leaving a hole.
Last edited by jack the toad; 10-14-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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10-14-2011, 10:23 PM
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Be careful not to damage the magazine tube where it is welded to the receiver while you are banging.
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10-14-2011, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msinc
If all of the above dont work try a lead fishing sinker bounced up and down in the tube. Usually that will knock it out. Sounds like you are installing a extended mag tube...I had the same problem and made a steel bar that has a slight taper to do the job. Dont feel bad, I own a lathe been smithing for 23 years and still tried exactly what you did!!!
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Well I'm glad I'm not the only guy whose done this to himself before, and the fact you're a pro makes it a little less painful to hear lol. And yes, thats exactly what I am trying to get done.
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10-16-2011, 11:42 AM
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I'd hesitate to use a slide hammer, if the brazing joint on the mag tube/receiver gets loose, it's a heap of trouble. The Lube & all-thread method sounds like a good one.... although I'd be tempted to find a spare mag tube cap and sacrifice it to reinforce the threaded end of the mag tube. If that collapses, you're again in a heap of trouble.
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