I have a lot of rounds going through a PC 627, and I'm wondering how often (every 2,500 rounds?) I need to get the weapon professionally cleaned for the areas I don't and can't get to?

Thanks

There is not really any area you can't get to. I'd recommend buying a copy of Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual. That and one of the Brownell's screwdrivers with the interchangeable tips and you are really good to go. If you have any other questions, PM me.

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S&WCA 1729

I have a model 620 that probably had 3000 rounds on it when I decided to open it up and tune the action. Did not see ANYTHING in the lockwork that indicated it needed to be cleaned. However, did see a good rub in the frame recess from the trigger that did a lot to explain why it was so stagy, so I installed a 0.0015 shim on the trigger stud to address that issue. BTW, the Kuhnhausen manual is a superb asset for any revolver owner.

As for your original question, if you use a good premium lubricant sparingly I suspect that you'll be into tens of thousands of rounds fired before you need to open it up. Hose it down with WD-40 and you'll probably have to clean that glue out every 2 years whether you shoot it or not. BTW, I like Mobil One applied with an eye dropper.

I am no gunsmith, but it would not occur to me to pay another to clean my guns. Firearms maintenence is not that difficult or complicated. Cleaning up a gun is a basically pleasant activity as well.

Whenever I buy a new "used" gun, I open it up to see what condition it is and what cleaning or lubing it may need. Very often that is the last time I have to open that gun up. I have a 686 I bought in 1984, and used in competition. Has maybe 20,000 rounds through it and still runs like a fine watch. Just clean it every time it is used. It should probably have some lube again so may do that this afternoon now that you have me thinking about it.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I'm with H Richard on opening up a new "used" gun. I just bought a M17-6 that had been shot a fair amount. So it had quite a bit of powder and lube residue in the action. After 24 hours in OMS (odorless mineral spirits) it still took a lot of brushing to clean everything out. I did my normal work inside, lubed and reassembled. I don't expect to take it apart again unless I encounter a problem.

For a new revolver where I know the history and the lube, I might never take it apart unless it needed work. But I'm a big believer that soaking the entire revolver in something like OMS, blowing out with compressed air, letting it dry and then lubing can clean all but the most difficult.

And I agree and do the same as stated above - regarding opening up a new or new/used gun to clean, lube and inspect - always gets done!. On guns that I shoot every once in a blue, I have not had to re-open very often, if at all. For guns (such as my daily CCW) or my weekly target shooter's, I do usually open and service every few years, or more often if I shoot it a lot. You should be able to tell when a good thorough internal cleaning is necessary by the feel of the gun. If it starts getting sluggish, sticky or gritty, it's time. If it still feels slick, smooth and crisp - all should be good to go.

Chief38

At 2,500 round it's probably not necessary. I've had the side plate off both of my Model 67s recently and each has around 2000 rounds through them and neither one was what I would call dirty inside. No need to pay someone to clean it. It's important to use the proper bits but if you can take the side plate off and hammer out you can clean anything that would need to be cleaned.

Don't even think about takin that thing apart if there is nothing wrong with.use less then a drop of oil on your crane to frame fit and only do that every blue moon.to much lube and you will be takin that gun apart.good luck and happy shooting.

This afternoon I opened up a friends S&W Revolver (K - Frame) that on the outside was about 99% +. It looked and felt like it had not even been fired. I opened it up and completely stripped the gun, and there was a fair amount of rust inside the gun and on all the internal parts. It took me a few hours to clean all the rust off, replace a cut up rebound spring and remove a few burrs, but the moral of the story here is that "don't judge a book by its cover". Just because it looks pristine on the outside does not mean all is the same inside. I am glad we went through the entire gun as it was 30+ years old, and the rust would have certainly gotten much worse on short order.

As long as one is familiar with the workings, disassembly and reassembly procedure, it is not a big deal to do so. I have even bought new in the box guns from a store that have had rust on the internal parts. Just because the gun is new does not mean it has been properly cleaned prior to assembly. Better to be safe than sorry.

Chief38

I've always taken the sideplate off a revolver that I bought used. Hose it down with brake cleaner and then lightly lube. Never taken any parts out, though. That would make me nervous, although I'm sure it's not that hard.

A good reference is always helpful, but you have done the hardest part when you have the sideplate off. It is really quite simple to remove the internals.

There is no need to pull the sideplate and clean inside. Nothing gets in there unless you drop the gun into water or mud or sand. Learning how to correctly remove the sideplate is something every S&W owner should learn how to do so you can inspect and lube the internals every couple of years or change springs. Squirting oil in through the hammer opening is just going to leak back out and make a mess and isn't going to get lube where it needs to go. If you have purchased a used gun it is a good idea to check inside and see if the previous owner neglected it by getting it wet or never lubing it or cleaning it with spray brake/carb cleaner and then dripping two drops of oil into the hammer opening. (yes, people do this) But as far as cleaning you are worrying about nothing. If you open it up and everything looks good place one drop of oil on the hammer/ trigger pins, hammer strut, sear face/hammer notch, rebound slide, cylinder stop pin and cylinder release bolt. Close it up and don't worry about it for a long time. I have used Breakfree CLP for many years and it stays on the parts almost forever without evaporating away. I used some nasty black moly grease on the sear/hammer notch.

And then....there are those guns that Bubba went into and god knows what he did. Usually, I will not even consider the purchase of a gun at market price if I see the side-plate screws marred. For goodness sakes....if you plan to take the screws out, at least use a tool that will not scrape off the bluing on the frame around the screw.

And then....there are those you try to open-up only to discover that Bubba had the bright idea to glue the screws in.

I guess my point is....if it ain't broke....don't fix it.

Taking the parts out isn't hard. Getting some of them out without losing or damaging them (cylinder stop spring comes to mind) does take some effort. The trick is getting them back in properly. I've seen people break the hammer pivot stud trying to beat the sideplate back on.