I've seen a video on youtube that shows how to disassemble a S&W 686 cylinder. The ejector rod on my 66 comes loose pretty easily. Do I just unscrew it, and apply blue loctite before reassembling?

Make sure it is clean and dry. Both surfaces. I use #242 removeable. Make sure you let the LocTite dry 24 hours after installation, before use. Only use a half a drop, it's all that's needed. Don't forget to shake the Loctite before use.

I think that's a complete list of all the mistakes I've made over the years.

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Go NRA

Does it matter which version of 66 I have? I have a 66 no dash, but it's the later no dash.

I do NOT and will NOT recomend using locktite on the ejector rod. As for why, try re-assembling a cylinder that has had the ejector rod locktited. This is a very fine pitch thread and getting the thread started is purely a matter of "feel". Lose that "feel" due to the locktite residue and it's likely that you'll crossthread the joint, which means purchasing a new ejector rod and a new extractor star and then paying a gunsmith to fit and time it to your revolver.

A much simpler and safer option is to tighten it properly. Start by filling the cylinder with fired casings to protect the extractor star. Then fold a bit of old worn out leather belt over the knurling and grasp that with some slip joint household pliers. Note, I mean the common 2 postition pliers, not channel locks. Now wrap the fingers of your other hand around the cylinder and squeeze with the type of grip you would use for shaking hands with a Marine Line Officer. Basically, firm but not stupid firm, this isn't a handshake contest with an enlisted leatherneck. What you are going to do is use that hand holding the cylinder as a slip clutch, so let it slip once the ejector rod is tight. If you find it shoots loose again, squeeze a bit harder next time you tighten it up. Final note is to remember that for revolvers made after 1961 it's a Left Hand thread. One way to spot the left hand thread ejector rods is that all of them have a narrow groove just behind the knurling wide enough you can snag it with a fingernail.

Good advice from Scooter, but I would add, is slide in the yoke to make sure the star rod doesn't bank to the side of the cylinder and flex. You want the star & ejec rod centered. This is if the assembly is removed from the frame.

I also would strongly suggest not using Locktite.

There are many ways to firmly grip extractor rod. But I have always had great success with the tool made for the job

extractor rod tool

I find that I can position it close to the cylinder and it gives me excellent grip. I have one of the Wessinger tools. You can also buy it here

I have seen too many slip joint pliers slip and cut through protective leather.

You have to degrease the threads on both parts. Threads must have no lube at all.

If you don't have the proper tool, use a good clean drill chuck. Tighten it on the shaft, not the knurled part. Then (with the empty cases in the chambers) Tighten by hand Line Officer tight as mentioned, (referred to as flight line tight by tarmac turdies). If it comes loose again, just repeat and give it a little more spirit when you twist it.

Take it easy, these are small parts.

And I am in the NO Locktite on gunz camp. (scope rings aren't gunz).

I was going to reply, but there is nothing more to add or improve on to what scooter123 has already posted. I too am NOT a Locktite fan in regard firearms. Motorcycles.....well that's another story.

Chief38

Make sure you do not overtighten it . Dont ask me how I know... : ) I clamp a wooden clothes pin on the knurled part of the rod and clamp it in a vise and then tighten it firmly on to the extractor by hand. I also use empty casings in 2 of the chambers.

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Cliff

Use the purple 222 Loctite, NOT the blue 242. The blue 242 is meant for larger diameter fasteners which gets people in trouble. It's too strong unless used VERY sparingly. 222 is enough without being too strong. Or keep tightening the rod when it comes loose. "Properly" of course.

Forget the leather in the vise or pliers.

The Power Custom Revolver Extractor Rod Removal Tool from Midway fits the J frame, KLN frames and Ruger Security Six.

It works great. Product #784689 for $26.99.

I have one of this type tool (see link) for the K, L, N frames. They work ok but if I get a REALLY tight rod it goes into a drill chuck (the kind that uses a chuck key) which holds the rod much better without damage.

EXTRACTOR ROD TOOL - Brownells

Me likey this one.

ViceSmith? - a unique extractor rod tool for - S&W®, Taurus®, and Ruger® Speed Six Revolvers | Welcome to Gunsmither? Tools | Myself

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NRA Benefactor

Looks good. Probably the best I've seen other than using a drill chuck.

If you liked that one, this one is really kool.

SmithMaster? - trigger spring tool for S&W Revolvers. | Welcome to Gunsmither? Tools | Myself

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NRA Benefactor

I just bought that brownells tool and threw it in the tool box. I figured it might be useful some day.

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SWCA 1646

This thread is an "ah ha" thread for me. I've got a '54 K-22 with this very problem. I was gonna start a thread asking what tool I needed to tighten the ejector rod and "viola" here's the answer. Thanks for all the links.

Blessings,
Hog

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Isaiah 55:8-9
Phil. 4:13

I'm so glad I found this thread. During our semi-annual quals, I noticed that my 940PC's ejector rod would loosen after a few cylinders. I would just tighten it by hand when I was on the firing line. I noticed that the cylinder release also loosened up. I'm going to use the loc-tite on the cylinder release, and try the drill bit trick on the ejector rod. This is the reason I dig this forum. Thanks for the great info.

The three jawed chuck on a drill press is probably the easiest and safest way to deal with the ejector rod. I do them that way, probably 5 times a week on an assortment of Smith's and have never marked one or had a problem. Just load the charge holes with cases.

Stu

It's been my experience that the cause of rods backing out (when properly tightened) is some lubricant has gotten in the rod. Until it is cleaned and dried out there will continue to be some loosening up of the rod. Use a good spray degrease product and a Dills pipe cleaner to wipe out the cavity. Make sure it is good and dry before reassembly.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I don't see any problem with a little powdered rosin on the threads and tighten with a piece of leather rapped around rod and some pliers.

USNRigger

I agree with Tyrod, above. I've used a spare drill chuck successfully for many years to disassemble a cylinder. But I struggled with the recoil slide spring removal and insertion, even with the offset shaped spring tool, until I came across the tools offered by the "Gunsmither". These two tools are well designed and well made. They are both well worth the modest cost for both of them.

Best of luck,

Dave

I would only use the red Loctite.

I'll sell you one of my tools for $19.95, no, today only let's make that TWO for 19.95. Free shipping.

Attached Images

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Two pieces of wood and a bench vise, you can tighten one up or take it apart w/o ever damaging anything. Works with the early oversize ejector rod head too.

As far as keeping it in place,,just tighten it up,the cylinder provides a lot of leverage this way.
It's just a two pieces threaded together. They don't do anything but slide back and forth with hand pressure. Don't over think things by using thread lockers and other stuff on the threads.

If the parts are siezed together a bit too well w/them, you can twist them right apart upon disassembly. Then you really have a problem.

I suggest caution...

My 1956 pre model 36 Chief's Special, original everything, cyl ser# matches butt ser# etc, is LEFT hand threads. There is no groove near the knurling.

My 1976 Model 66 matches scooter's description.
My 1957 K-22 does as well. LEFT hand threads with groove.

All three revolvers have LEFT hand threads. ONE of them does not have a groove. TWO of them are pre-1961 when it's commonly written to expect them to be RIGHT hand threads.

There appear to have been variants.


Sgt Lumpy

I agree with scooter 100% - NO LOCKTITE - it's NOT needed and can only screw things up. The only thing I do differently is I chuck the Ejector Rod in a Drill Press close to the cylinder face, tighten snugly but don't Gorilla tighten the Chuck. Then simply turn the cylinder to loosen or tighten. Works MUCH BETTER than leather and pliers. It you do not have a Drill Press, use a portable drill chuck. Just make sure not to tighten the Chuck in the knurled area at the tip.

There is NO NEED for the fancy tools & jigs that are sold from Brownell's, Midway, etc. A Drill Press is better, faster and easier and it will NOT screw anything up! I have done this gazillions of times and have never had any issues. Just did TWO M18's this evening! Don't forget the empty cases!!!!!!!!!!

By the way, this method works so well, I assemble the parts with Rig #2 Oil on them and they never work loose. I don't like to leave blued parts free of rest preventative. This method has never failed me.

Good day to all...
Of the several S&W revolvers I have owned,only my most recent 686 has had the loosening issue.You can tell it's loose when the cylinder gets difficult to swing open.I discovered a 2 dollar method that works great & allows the ejector rod to be tightened properly without damage:a 1/4 brass compression fitting.It fits the ejector rod perfectly and allows you to use a wrench to tighten it.BE MINDFUL of over tightening though.I put empty brass in all 6 chambers when I tighten.I recommend splitting the ferrule in one place to make for easy removal.Works great in a pinch.I keep one in my shooting case now, but haven't needed it since tightening it properly.Proper tool is on the way to me.I don't recommend loctite either.

The factory does not use locktite and neither should you… IF you mess up the ejector star then you will not be able to buy a new one from the factory because they consider it a fitted part… Now you need to send in the gun for repair which will not be covered under warranty.

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S&W factory revolver armorer

The correct powers customer tool is required here, set it tight and low, put blanks into all the cylinder, watch the direction of thread, mostly left hand after 1950s or so, and tighten snug, dont overdo it. Then when the extract rod isn't totally straight you can make it very nice in the Powers ejector rod and yoke straighten tool (expensive tool).

I use loctite on everything like buffalo red sauce but NOT here. NO

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VCDL, GOA, NRA

Old problems become new problems...assuming they left in the first place.lol

Agree with Old Newf on the currency of old threads.

I too will not use or advocate Loc-Tite. I have the Gunsmither tool, the Ron Power tool and a separate drill chuck. All three work equally well, along with the other preparations and precautions listed.

I have two sets of tools I use for firearms. One set stays in the cabinet for home use only. The other set resides in my (old) Pachmayr gun box, which goes out with me whenever I am shooting. This set of tools has everything I would need in the field. If, although it has never happened to me, I do have an ejector rod loosen, I can correct it right then and there.

Besides the utility element, I just find one of life's little pleasures is having the right tool for the job.

At the armorers school you are taught to tighten the ejector rod tightly in a vise then screw the cylinder onto the rod until your knuckles turn white. (I made up the part about the white knuckles!) They just use a plain jawed bench vise. No pads, no special tools. I have a Power tool that I keep in my range tool box and that works well also and is good to have when you're not near a workbench.

I made one of the tools like Midway and Brownells sells. It worked but I like using a drill chuck better. I found cheap drill in a pawn shop with a decent chuck, removed the chuck and keep it on my gun bench with the key in the jaws hand tight. I also have a block of wood with a 2 empty 22lr, 2 empty 32 S&W, 2 38 spec. 2 44 spec and 2 45 acp and 2 45 colts.

I can not remember a rod coming loose that I tightened. Make sure both parts are clean and dry.