I have been fighting a binding issue with my model 27. It feels like the cylinder is rubbing the forcing cone. I took the cylinder out and rubbed the face of the cylinder with scotchbrite. I can't feel it binding now but I thought about trying the cylinder out of a model 28 if the scotchbrite doesn't fix it.

First, please do not use scotchbrite or any similar abrasive on the face of the cylinder of any revolver. It will not do kind things to the cylinder face. There are a number of reasons why you might be experiencing some binding of the cylinder in your revolver. None of them are fixable by sanding scuffing w/ scotchbrite, etc. You can try the cylinder assembly from a Model 28 in your Model 27. But that will not help you figure out what is wrong with your 27 using the cylinder that the factory installed in it. You would be well advised to seek the services of a good gun smith familiar with S&W revolver. But again, do not scuff, sand, scrape, etc. the face of the cylinder. It can easily lead to damage that will not be fixable short of a new cylinder. HTH. Sincerely. brucev.

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Revolver cylinders are hand fitted at the factory.
They don't just drop in, so it's almost certain that a cylinder assembly from one gun will not fit in another correctly.

Just because a cylinder assembly will snap into the frame is no sign it's actually correct.

The correct method of determining if the cylinder is rubbing on the rear of the barrel is to just LOOK.
Look at the barrel-cylinder gap with the cylinder pushed forward. If it's touching the barrel you can SEE it.

If it is, gauge the gap with an automotive feeler gauge with the cylinder held forward, then hold the cylinder to the rear and gauge it again.
Subtract one measurement from another and that's how much cylinder end shake is present. If the measurement is over about 0.006" the cylinder needs repair and it may be hitting the rear of the barrel.

"Sanding" the cylinder or the barrel IS NOT how this is corrected. That's how good guns are ruined.

I can't see how hitting it with scotchbrite can hurt anything. It just smooths it out. It might remove a micron at most. I didn't take a file to it.

This is normally caused by excessive "end play" which can be easily corrected at a small cost. End play spacers are available from Brownells.

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Martin Co,FLA(finally made it)

This gun hasn't been fired much. Could it still have to much end shake?

You don't want to use a harsh abrasive pad on the face of a revolver cylinder for the same reason you don't want to use a similar item on the highly polished portion of the frame or the interior of the bore... it will scratch, etc. You might want to read through Nonte's Pistolsmithing, etc. for a more extensive explanation. Sincerely. brucev.

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I just ordered the s&w gunsmith DVD and endshake bushing from midway. I'll see if that fixes my problem.