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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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Old 06-18-2012, 09:09 AM
41steve 41steve is offline
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Smile 1950's K Fr Diamond target Grips Refinish

I am refinshing a set of these semi rare w/o the speedloader cutout have done acetoned all the ****** thick stuff off someone smeared on them they look pretty nice , would a tru oil finish be correct on these ? I have had spectacular results on 70's and up thru early 1990's grips but most of the older grips i see appear duller and don't have the glossier finish of later grips I also have a set of N cokes to do with a few places in them , advice ? expierences ? thanks 41steve
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:04 PM
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The lack of a glossy finish on older grips could be the result of age, one way to cut down on that is after the tru-oil is dry, use some OOOO steel wool to take the shine off.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:28 PM
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I just refinished a pair applying boiled linseed oil to bare sanded wood,

It was an experiment but they actually came out very nice and without any shine.
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Old 06-19-2012, 07:30 PM
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BTW, dont try that on your rare grips, experiment on a scrap pair first if in doubt.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:10 PM
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S&W used a variety of finish formulations throughout the years and most of them (until the late 60's) were a proprietary oil/varnish finish.

Tru-Oil is a modified linseed oil finish... "polymerized" (not the same as a poly-urethane) with high heat.

I just looked at the pair of unrelieved K-Frame grips that I have and the original finish looks like a satin (not semi-gloss) finish.

Experiment with another piece of wood first, but I suspect that one of the satin (poly-urethane) spray varnishes will be in the ball park and easier to apply.

I've gone the Tru-Oil, burnish it with 0000 steel wool route and found that the results are not quite the same.

I have had better success by first diluting the Tru-oil down to around a 50/50 mix which will allow it to easily soak into the wood. I apply a thin coat and then after it has completely dried, I lightly buff it with a soft cotton cloth to bring up just a bit of a sheen. If it is too dull or won't raise a sheen, I apply another thin coat, let it dry and try rubbing it out again.

One thing for sure, on the checkered section, all that is needed there is very small amount of oil worked/brushed in with a tooth brush to seal the wood, or you'll end up with that "clogged" look again.
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Old 06-19-2012, 08:11 PM
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Tru Oil is great, but for a really nice finish rub down with 0000 steel wool between each coat. After last coat is fully dry, I usually use about 4 coats, rubbed in with the heel of my hand and dried 24 hrs. (to me 7 days) mix a paste of rottenstone and mineral oil. rub out the finish and you will get a soft glow with any glossy shine.
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