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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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Old 09-29-2015, 08:43 PM
deadear dan deadear dan is offline
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Default smoothing ridged triggers

I would like to smoothen the ridges on my model 15-2's trigger. Not looking at removing them, just polishing them down a bit so they don't grab my finger with a double action pull. I have a dremel, should I use a stone or sandpaper wheel? thanks.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:01 PM
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Try the sandpaper first.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:03 PM
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I once had a gunsmith tell me that a Dremel was a gunsmith's favorite tool. He just about made a living by fixing what amateurs messed up with miss-applied power tools.

I'd use abrasive cloth wrapped around an appropriate sized dowel and go slow until the minimum amount has been removed. I'll bet you will eventually end up polishing the face of the trigger. Most people that shoot a lot of DA do.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:36 PM
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I'd NEVER go near a S&W with a Dremel, I wouldn't have it in the same room with a S&W........
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:21 PM
Ranger514 Ranger514 is offline
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Stupid question: Can't you simply replace the ridged trigger with a smooth combat trigger, or isn't that an option?

Last edited by Ranger514; 09-29-2015 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:36 PM
Big Cholla Big Cholla is offline
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After a Pistolsmith learns the ins and outs of the handguns chosen to work with......what he is selling after that is his learned experience and TIME! Tools are tools no matter if it is a vile, nasty old power tool or the finest cut Jeweler's File or the best Arkansas Black Stone. All tools must be mastered in technique and no one should jump right in on say a Registered Magnum for a innards polishing action job using a Dremel for the first time ever. But, given a few years experience with a Dremel or the Foredom Tool (a Dremel on steroids) and the knowledge which surfaces are safe to be altered with the Dremel/Foredom tool and which are not, then the action job on the above Registered Magnum could very well be done in half the time by the proper use of those power tools.

An aside: I had a very good customer that just couldn't believe that he couldn't improve any handgun with the use of his Dremel. After I fixed his third mistake during his 'building' of his very first M 1911, I told him the charge was for him to bring me his Dremel and to never purchase another. Darned if he didn't do just that.

Now, the issue of taking off the ridges on the face of many S&W triggers..........I will polish one out to look just like a S&W original smooth face combat trigger in 1/2 to 1/3 the time someone else would take using files and sandpaper. But, I know how to use the Foredom Tool and I know its limitations. Start with a round grinder in the tool that is about 3/4" in diameter. Mount the trigger securely in a vise where your strong forearm is comfortable at 90 deg. to the trigger. Start grinding in the curve with light even strokes from top to near the tip, but do not run out past the tip. You do and the tool will grab and skitter back across the back of the trigger and you do not want to touch the back of the trigger with any tool during this process. My main vise is mounted at the corner end of my workbench so it is comfortable to work on both sides of the trigger as required. When the ridges are just barely ground away take a critical look at the trigger shape you have created. Re shape as required using very light strokes and a slow rotating speed. Satisfied? Now, put the Dremel/Foredom tool away and proceed with strips of sand paper cut in strips about 1/2" wide. Use the 'shoeshine' motion to sand with increasingly finer strips of sandpaper. When I'm down to about 350 or 400 grit I will switch to 3M's Scotch Brite also cut into 1/2" strips. Usually the finer grade is all that is required. Some shooters prefer the feel of a slightly textured surface on their trigger .....the rougher Scotch Brite can be use in that case. When I have the surface that is required I touch up the tip of the trigger with a piece of fine sandpaper backed by a fine graded file. ............30 minutes Tops!

Now, how to obtain the feel and experience it takes to use your Dremel/Foredom in such a job? Nothing else works as good as buying a couple of junk triggers and working on them first. No one starts in on a procedure requiring fine motor muscle skills and does it perfectly the first time. A little effort in learning the muscle memory required will pay off handsomely for any of us. .............
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:14 AM
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Like Big Cholla I rely on my Foredoms (2) a lot. Demels are a bit too light, lack the power and control for my type of work. The Foredom is a serious tool and with the right hand piece I can accurately take care of quite a few steps customizing and completing a good action job. As said, any tool takes practice and the Foredom is no different providing you have a good inventory tools for it. Those who refuse or have had bad experiences should stay away but I'm not one and rely on them for metal and woodworking.

I reshape my triggers a bit different but remove the serrations the same and up to Cratex plugs then probably spend longer chasing out the tooling marks on my buffers with stitched muslin wheels loaded from 180 to 600 grit then polish compounds. Of course if I'm installing an over travel screw that's done before final polish

Regards
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:55 AM
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Larry Potterfield shows you how to do it:
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:58 AM
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For competition I had my trigger rounded. I watched the gunsmith use a dremel just like in the video above, but he broke the edges as well. If someone has done a lot of work with their hands and knows they are good at things like this, it's worth a try. I'd still buy a second trigger to work on.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:06 AM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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I do much the same but chuck the wheels, rolls, flappers etc in my drill press and hand hold the trigger while working it. Same for the shaping / finishing of bobbed or more radically lightened hammers.
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:21 PM
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I am not a Professional GS however I've been doing my own work for at least 35 years. While I would agree that IN THE HANDS OF A NOVICE a Dremel (or any power actuated tool) is a disaster waiting to happen, there ARE numerous uses for working with them in the hands of experienced people. A Dremel is no different than any other power tool in any other industry. One must know when, where and exactly how to use it. One must only use them for "rough work" and leave the fine and final fitting and metal or wood removal to the hand tools only. Novices just don't understand how fast they permanently remove metal & wood until they go too far!

A Dremel (or Fordham tool) can be a great asset IF USED PROPERLY and one who uses them KNOWS EXACTLY when to use one and when NOT to. All that said - I would agree that for Novices or beginners who are starting to tinker with guns - stay away from power tools until you fully understand exactly what you are doing.

One key word of advise even to experienced ammeter GS's........... always use a finer stone, cutter, bit, sanding disk etc. than you think you will need for a specific task. If it's too fine you can always go more course, but to me slow and steady is always the best way. Anyone with any doubts - do it the old fashion way - by hand!

The MOST used tool on my bench is a 1/4" x 1/4" x 3" extra Hard Arkansas Stone.

Getting back to the Trigger itself, removing the ridges is one of the easiest jobs for a novice to accomplish since it is not a critical measurement of a precisely fitted part you are working on. The Trigger MUST be removed from the Revolver to insure that no part of the firearm gets scratched or gouged while doing the work. You also want to make sure no metal filings get into the Revolver making it gritty. Removing it allows much more control and precision workmanship of said part. Removing it is a 5 minute job if one has the experience - and if not, then it's time to learn how - assuming you have the desire, mechanical skills and tools to do so.
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Last edited by chief38; 09-30-2015 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:34 PM
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Use some of the black, 3M wet or dry, abrasive paper, it's made for metal work .
Get a assorted pack start with a rougher grit and finish up with the 400 or 600 grade. Polish with 0000 steel wool. The paper and wool work better with a little oil ( any kind ) to help the cutting/polishing action.
This is for smoothing the sharp edges, if you want to remove them , follow Larry Potterfield's instructional video.
Dremel tool can do a lot , fast....sometimes too fast , so be very careful.

Gary

Last edited by gwpercle; 09-30-2015 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 09-30-2015, 08:12 PM
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My old Daddy did a few in his time. He used what he called dragons tongue. Then Polished with jewellers rouge on a wheel...And patience....
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Last edited by Old TexMex; 09-30-2015 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:26 PM
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If it was mentioned I missed it, NEVER work on a trigger this way without removing it from the gun. Also, you can just slightly
straighten out the bottom of the curve on the trigger and it will be much more comfortable to shoot DA.
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Old 10-20-2015, 07:48 PM
jframejoey jframejoey is offline
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Could someone post pics of triggers they've done themselves with these methods? Thanks, Joe
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