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Old 07-19-2012, 06:17 PM
nipster nipster is offline
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Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question  
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Default Bubba special model 10 to model 13 question

I recently bought a bunch of used broken guns.

Between some of them, I have the parts to take a broke model 10-5 with a bulged pencil barrel and model 13 with a cracked frame (topstrap) and "make" a model 10 with a model 13 barrel, crane and cylinder.

Firstoff, would this be safe to operate assuming that timing is proper?

I know they made 10-6's in 357 magnum, I dont know if anything "extra" or special was done to the frames of those model 10's.

I also have a model 15 I may be able to salvage too, kind of same question on that...

Thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 07-19-2012, 06:39 PM
tennexplorer tennexplorer is offline
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It is to me a yes and no sort of question. You can put it together and make one. The problem is the 10-5 is fairly early and the K-frame .357s were supposedly heat treated differently. I would recommend taking the good parts off the 13 and selling them and using the funds to buy a model 10 parts kit off gunbroker. Same with the 15 also. I am just concerned about full house .357 rounds getting fired in a Model 10.

I also have to ask, how does a topstrap get broken?
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:04 PM
nipster nipster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennexplorer View Post
I also have to ask, how does a topstrap get broken?
I have no idea. It was actually cracked about a half inch behind where the forcing cone protrudes from the frame, not in the area of "flame cutting", but further back.

I can only speculate it was dropped or something, who knows.

I bought a "box of broken guns" from a gun store.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:43 PM
davidrepeterson davidrepeterson is offline
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In my experience I have converted a .38 K frame to .357 then used it to test hot handloads and did so for many years without incident.


With that said, I purchased and used all the proper gunsmithing tools for the conversion, to include an action wrench, chamfering tools and a lathe which I already owned. I also took measuments, compared them to a new gun and carefully inspected all of the used parts (i did the same for new parts) and periodically reinspected everything. If you go this route and keep your loads below 1200fps your experience could be as safe as mine was. However, I used a new frame and used parts from de-milled guns which appeared to have been fired only a few times. I do not think that any of the parts that I used were from guns destroyed from shooting incidents.

Incidently I tested loads to around 1700fps whereas the frame did stretch slightly and the barrel had to be re-fitted more than once. I also shot loads to around 1400fps in a brand new Model 13 and over the years experienced slightly less frame stretching and top strap and forcing cone burn.

Good luck if you decide to give it a try.

Last edited by davidrepeterson; 08-08-2012 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:42 PM
gtoppcop gtoppcop is online now
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I think that the Cylinder is the main concern. Just as stated above, expect more accelerated frame lengthening than normal. I don't think it'll give way, but with all of the work, it may prove more economical to get a .357.

In the 70s, Cake-Davis in Sacramento bored out the Model 60 to .357 Magnum and warranted it for 150 or so rounds of 110 grain Magnums. After that, the frame would stretch so the gun would be unreliable. This was for LEOs only.

From what my gunsmith tells me, the newer (post-1957) frames had more elasticity to them, so they wouldn't give way. The effect on a .38 frame is that the frame window would stretch quicker than a similar K-Frame Magnum.

With that said, today's .357s are a bit less powerful than the ones of yesteryear. The new bullet technology does a bit more with less power.

Interesting project nonetheless. Good luck!
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Old 10-11-2015, 10:54 PM
Hapworth Hapworth is offline
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Are you planning on doing the gunsmithing yourself?
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Old 10-12-2015, 08:50 AM
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steelslaver steelslaver is offline
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I have a model 10 that I fitted another barrel to as well as a model 19 cylinder. I have not fired a bunch of hot loads through it and wouldn't even if it was a completely stock model 19. But after 100s of normal 357 loads (158 gr cast over 6.2 unique) I can't measure any stretch.

But, if you look on ebay you will notice some parts bring good money. If you are not setup to do the work yourself. I don't think it is worth it. My model 10 conversion works for me, but it will not be worth much with even added adj sights. It is just a truck, boat gun.

Last edited by steelslaver; 10-12-2015 at 10:14 AM.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:05 PM
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keith44spl keith44spl is offline
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Like Steelslaver above,

I too have swapped a few barrels & cylinders.

Just for my own use and I proceed with reasonable caution on loadings.

This one came to mind, a M-10 with a model 15 barrel...Re-configured to suit myself.



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Old 10-20-2015, 04:45 PM
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flintsghost flintsghost is offline
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The portion of .357's that is heatreated differently for loads is NOT the frame. It is the cylinder, so if you have a .357 cylinder, you are in business. The answer is yes you can do it and yes it will be able to stand the loads.
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Old 10-20-2015, 05:33 PM
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Guys, the OP was banned from the site 2 1/2 years ago...maybe he can pick up the good suggestions telepathically .
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