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Old 07-27-2012, 08:01 PM
delta-419 delta-419 is offline
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I am finishing a stock with boiled linseed oil and have 7-8 thin coatings on black walnut. The stained finish looks good and I have been carding it with 4-o steelwool between each drying period. I want to get a slight sheen on the finish, would canuba wax be counterproductive to the oil finish? Or would more carding and more linseed oil do the trick? This is new wood never finished before. Appreciate your help!
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Old 07-27-2012, 08:36 PM
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I am not linseed oil expert, but I would NOT wax (seal) a freshly oiled finish. From what I do know about Linseed oil is that it takes forever to really dry and that is one of the main reasons I don't often use it. I much prefer Tung Oil which dries very quickly. I would refrain from waxing the gun stock for quite a while if it were mine.

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Old 07-27-2012, 08:51 PM
Falguy Falguy is offline
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cheif has it right.

When you use linseed oil do you use it straight?
I always mix two parts linseed oil to one part mineral spirits.
The mineral spirits will act as a drying agent

If you want to do more, two parts Tung oil and one part mineral spirits.
The mineral spirits will act as a drying agent

Allow 24hrs between coatings

In my experience, wax is a terrible idea. I’ve done it before. The wax will get into small crevices and stay white. If you want to ever do anything else to the stock the wax must all be stripped of
I will never use wax again
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:08 PM
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Just one coat of the linseed oil/mineral spirits is necessary
Allow 24hrs to dry

If you want the Tung oil/mineral spirits treatment. One coat should do it if you use a brush


If you want to do a hand rubbed application
Stock makers will do a hand rubbed application of 2 parts Tung oil/1 part mineral spirits, allow 24hrs and do a second coat

Then they will do 50/50 Tung oil/mineral spirits coat, let dry for 24hrs and do a second coat

Then they will do a 1 part Tung oil/2 parts mineral spirits, allow to dry for 24hrs and do a second coat

wax is a bad idea
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:13 PM
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I use "gunny's paste" on the oil finished stock on my Garand.
No problem with it, that's what its made for, doesn't turn white.
Save the car wax for your car.
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:51 PM
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I'm not trying to dispute what the others have said. The grips below were stripped using acetone, 5 coats of pure Tung Oil/Mineral spirits 50/50, and 5 coats of straight pure Tung Oil. Light coat of Johnson's paste wax after a week to dry after the last coat.

The grips were pretty plain to start with.

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Old 07-27-2012, 09:52 PM
delta-419 delta-419 is offline
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Thanks for your input. I'm using a premix lindseed and drying agent with stain in the mix. Its called Winchester Restorations by John Kay. Drys in about 6 hours. I usually let it dry overnight. I am done with the application, just did not want to messup a lot of hard work by waxing the finished product. It is hand rubbed all the way in very thin applications. I will forget the wax.
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Old 07-28-2012, 12:49 AM
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jepp2:

Yes I agree with you on the Tung Oil which is exactly what I do use - it dries quickly & completely. Linseed Oil on the other hand is known to take forever to completely dry and that is why I suggested NOT to wax over it.

By the way..... that's a NICE revolver!

Chief38

Last edited by chief38; 07-28-2012 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 07-28-2012, 02:03 AM
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My usual practice with a rifle stock is several coats of 50/50 linseed/mineral spirits, each rubbed with the hands until it feels dry. Then several applications, a week apart, of just a few drops of straight linseed, spread over the whole stock with the fingers, then rubbed with the hands until it feels dry. The hand rubbing with light pressure will give a nice sheen. I still have 3 rifles that I refinished over 20 yrs ago, and they still look great. Forget the wax, IMHO.

Larry
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Old 07-28-2012, 11:48 AM
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I use Tru-oil, usually 6-7 coats, rubbed in a day apart, with light 0000 steel wool wipe down in between, then after drying fully for a week, hand rub with a solution of Rotten-stone mixed with mineral oil. This is an extremely mild abrasive, and just polish's the finish to a soft glow, and cuts the shiny glare off the finish. When I am satisfied with that, I put a coat of Renaissance Wax over it.
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