I bought this revolver for the woods and I love it, but I am curious about how to properly clean this thing without damaging the coating I am reading about.

What solutions or brushes should I use and what should I be sure to avoid?

And is it possible to remove the burn marks on the outside of the cylinder?

Also, what are your thoughts on using a bore-snake for a revolver?

Thanks,

David

No heavy abrasives or scrubbing on the cylinder due to the coating on the titanium alloy. This probably means the burn marks need to stay .

I'd treat the alloy frame like any standard anodized surface. I find Bore Snakes good for maintenance cleaning, and for heavy crud everyone has their favorite equipment and methods. Hope this is helpful.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

Thanks. So i take it hoppes 9 will do the trick?

Also, I read on this forum that noxon 7 will remove the burn marks, but is that too abrasive? does anyone know?

Burn marks are just proof you use your guns as S&W intended. I have the same gun, and I just give the front of the cylinder the once over with a soft toothbrush and Hoppes, followed by a clean rag. I just want to get the debris off, I don't want to try and make it look like new.

Others feel differently.

but just in case I plan on ever selling (which I don't), I just want to find out if there is indeed a way to make this thing look new again.

For the cylinder,and Hoppes 9 on a shop cloth for the cylinder face.

Bought mine several years ago, and it has been shot a good deal, so cylinder face is pretty much black.

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the world is round everywhere

Yes, Hoppes #9 or any standard solvent will be fine, along with nothing harder than the cylinder coating (like a soft toothbrush).

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I would be careful with the Hoppe's. I usually use it on my blued guns but don't on my 329PD. The factory says Break-free, I believe. I don't have Break-free so I have used mineral spirits and nylon bore-brushes and haven't had any trouble... yet.

I wouldn't even try to keep the gun looking "like new." Probably will do more harm than good. My gun looks a little gnarly too, so I guess I will just have to keep it.

I think you may be right. I emailed smith and wesson and they advised against using cleaner with ammonia which will remove the coating on the scandium/titanium.

A bit or research shows that Hoppes 9 has traces of ammonia, so I think I'll avoid using this on my 329PD.

S&W advised me to use MPro 7 or Hoppes Elite which apparently are the same product repackaged.

Can anyone concur?

Thanks

I was given a product distributed by MPC lubricants called Firepower FP-10 cleaner/lubricant to try out by a local shop. I was also given some filthy neglected firearms to try it on. A before and after kinda thing. The guns were broken down, cleaned and lubed. This one product removed lead, burnt powder, dirt and did an excellent job as a lubricant. I decided to try it on my wifes clean revolver. I ran a soaked patch through and let it sit for a little while then ran a dry patch through the bore and it came out dirty. I then decided to try it on the scorch rings. A toothbrush was working but I tried using a fine scotch bright pad. It removed all trace of scorching and left her 22 year old model 66-3 looking new. I don't know how well it works on coated titanium but I know it works wonders on stainless steel and blued firearms.

ZOMBIE THREAD! hahah, Hi all, this is my first post here as I just recently bought a 329PD and was looking for cleaning tips. I was wondering what anyone's opinions were with using a "Magic Eraser" when cleaning the Ti cylinder.... I used a M.E. very lightly with Hoppe's Elite and it literally wiped the residue right off. I couldn't find info on this Ti coating that has been mentioned but the cylinder doesn't look/feel any different on the areas I didn't use the eraser.

It is an abrasive, but very mild, in my opinion. I've used a M.E. on my hands to get the stubborn motor grease spots off my hands.

If its mild enough for light use on my skin, it should be ok for a revolver cylinder..... Thoughts?

P.S. Love this gun! and its much more enjoyable, even fun, to shoot with the Pachmayr grip, especially for someone with smaller hands.

On my 325pd 4" I use hoppes elite only to clean & some oil. A bore brush for the barrel only. Cloth patches for the charge holes/cylinder.

No, it is a poor design which is not just cosmetic. The titanium has some surface treatment on it and once you burn through it, you are in erosion city. I had a 357pd, which is the 41 mag version if your gun, and I sent it back to S&W due to the burn marks and erosion. Luckily S&W has stainless steel cylinders that are finished in black that match the frame exactly.

I was pretty mad because it is a beautiful lightweight gun. I am wondering if a bead blasted stainless cylinder could give a similar look with a ton of durability?

Chris

It could be that with magnum loads the titanium cylinders can burn or erode. I have 3 with titanium cylinders but 2 are 45acp & the other is 38+p & none of them have any erosion. They still make I think 2 magnum models with titanium cylinders & a lifetime warranty.

Welcome! It's impossible to say if the coating has been removed with this method. It certainly doesn't sound to be heavy abrasion but the cylinder doesn't talk . The factory will obviously advise against it.

Practically, the only way to tell if anything is amiss now is to shoot your 329 and see what happens. The good news is the cylinders are still available, and the better news may be yours won't erode. Enjoy!

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I guess time will tell now. Reapplied light oil coating for protection. I thought it was interesting that there are no special care instructions other than don't use "Ammoniated solvent or strong alkaline solvents"' and that this Ti coating isn't mentioned in the owners manual.

Probably won't do it again but wowza it worked great.

I had a Taurus Titanium Tracker in 357. Their instructions are pretty much the same, with warnings not to scratch the chambers or cylinder face. I love titanium and have some experience with it (PSD Products - Paul Stasiak Designs) so I did a bunch of reading on it. What I found out was that titanium absorbs hydrogen from the high pressure hydrocarbons in the burned propellant gasses (if not coated). This causes a condition called "hydrogen embrittlement" which ruins the strength of the titanium. I may be a little off on this since it was years ago that I did the research. I am very interested to know what this coating is if anyone knows.

Nylon brush with your solvent of choice and 100% cotton patches should be fine.

Break Free and Ballistol are the only lubricants I have used for the last 40 years. Both are great for most cleaning and all lubrication.

Much prefer Hoppe's #9 for lead removal.

However, I actually use the Hoppe's for almost all cleaning, ( non - black powder ), and it does a decent job for rust prevention even though it is not advertised for that use.

Nylon brush with your solvent of choice and 100% cotton patches should be fine.

Break Free and Ballistol are the only lubricants I have used for the last 40 years. Both are great for most cleaning and all lubrication.

Much prefer Hoppe's #9 for lead removal.

However, I actually use the Hoppe's for almost all cleaning, ( non - black powder ), and it does a decent job for rust prevention even though it is not advertised for that use.

The perfect answer

I have a 325PD and use a soft Nylon brush and CLP (Breakfree). It leaves the front of the cylinder black but cleans the crud off.

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