I have an old 14-3 that I picked up at the gun show. Everything was ok except the trigger pull was about 2#.

I let someone else try it and the gun discharged before they were ready. I decided it was unsafe the way it was.

I used a Powers jig to modify the trigger a little. It seems to be ok now. Maybe 3.5# in single action. Except if I don't pull the trigger fast in single action, the trigger catches on the double action sear, slowing the hammer and pulling the trigger forward.

Do I need to stone the sear a little so the trigger doesn't catch on it during the single action release?

Thanks for the help!
Ron

Can't help with the trigger repair, but I always make folks dry fire my guns before allowing them to handle them loaded. Most of my guns have "nice" triggers and this seems to help.

Something has been changed? The hammer shouldn't hit the sear if fired SA. My two hunting Smiths (629 & 617) both have 2 3/4 pound SA triggers with no problems.

Strongly suggest you purchase the Jerry Kuhnhausen book The Smith & Wesson Revolver: A Shop Manual and let it be your guide for repair work.

Maybe the mainspring? Does it fire double action ok? I curious to find out what's up. Keep us posted.

Best leave it to the experts...regardless of how many books you have read. That don't make you a gunsmith....jmo.

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Lt. Dan, what R U doing here?

I set the Powers Custom jig back to the original "20 click" setting, stoned the angle, and then lightly took off any tiney burrs. The gun now works the way it did before I started. From what everyone says, S&W has a very light single action trigger pull. I hate that you cannot touch up the hammer sear notch. It is so small. Sooner or later we will run out of old parts like hammers and triggers.

I would really like to see a diagram of the hammer notch and the trigger engagement with factory specs. I have the Kunhausen book, but it doesn't give a lot of details.

What about the mainspring tension and the rebound spring.....have these springs been altered or changed? If so, that can have a serious effect on trigger pull weight and can have safety implications. Since it's a "new to you" used gun, I would suggest taking it to a S&W trained armorer or sending it back to the factory for a check up.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

I just bought a Model 29, and discovered this problem the first time I shot it. I used a stone to very lightly break the edge on the hammer where the DA sear releases the hammer. I tried to keep the stone at a 45 degree angle to the edge I was working on, and only too a very small amount of metal off. The problem is fixed as far as dry firing, but I have yet to test it with live ammo.

I located a brand new k frame trigger online. It arrived this week and I installed it in the pistol. The new trigger fixed the hammer push off and still gave me a nice light trigger pull. Shoots great now.

Thanks for all the input!

Good sear surfaces are a necessity. Heavier springs will mask a sear (push off) problem but not really fix it. With good sears you can leave the rebound spring out and not have push off. My revolvers are set up for DA with no consideration for SA and frequently (the ones that I haven't ground off the SA sears) end up with sub 2 lb triggers with no push off.