if that model has the frame mounted firing pin, you first remove the side plate by removing the screws and rapping the grip frame with a plastic hammer or screw driver handle, never pry on the plate, the plate will come up but just rap it till it comes loose. the hammer block will be lose or stuck in the side plate ,don't loose it, then up at the firing pin there is a little cross pin that you pull out releasing the firing pin and spring.
i had light stirke with a thunder ranch 45 acp revolver, i tried a longer firing pin from cylinder and slide but it did not help, so i decided the mainspring needed more tention so i put in a new spring, this also did not help. then i noticed the strain screw did not screw in as far as some of my other guns, the strain screw must be screwed all the way down till it stops. i removed a few thousands from under the screw head in the lathe and it gave the spring enough tention to fire every time.
Ronnie covered it pretty well, however a couple of tips that will make it easier. First, remove the hammer from the frame recess, you'll gain "working room". Second, the firing pin is under tension from a return spring. To avoid launching the pin across the room press on the firing pin with a toothpick while you remove the cross pin, this will also take off the drag of the firing pin so the cross pin will lift right out.
The Cylinder & Slide firing pin is distinctly longer than the standard factory item or the firing pin from Apex tactical. In addition the slot for the retaining pin is extended so that the C&S firing pin acn "stroke" further. This is helpful for gaining reliable ignition in revolvers with lightened triggers but I recomend that it not be used on revolvers with the mainspring set at "factory" levels, it can cause fractured primers or the risk of a pierced primer. Been there done that, in a 610-3 with a 11 lbs. DA trigger 30% of the primers fractured when the C&S firing pin was installed. Now that I've reduced the weight to 9.0 lbs. it's been crater free.
The stainless steel strain screws have a reputation for "peening" shorter and I've seen this myself in my stainless revolvers. If you are using rubber grips that cover the front strap I would suggest that you just order up the Blued strain screws from Brownell's or similar gunsmithing operations, they seem to be much more resistant to peening shorter. If you are using wood grips you will probably find that replacing this strain screw every 2000-4000 trigger pulls is adviseable if you wish to retain the 11-12.5 lbs. DA trigger that the factory mainspring can produce. I will also warn you that you should pull the strain screw out of the frame every 1000-2000 trigger pulls and remove the burr that is produced as the end peens over, if you don't you'll find removing the strain screw will require removing that burr before you can back it out through the hole in the frame. Yeah, those stainless screws are freaking soft.
Firing Pin removal 686-5
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