Greetings,

Some years ago I purchased a used Smith & Wesson Model 10 heavy barrel, blued, 4" pinned barrel, square butt that is Circa 1967 with the original box. It is in near new condition with little evidence of use or wear. It is identical to my first issue duty weapon in 1974, and has nostalgic value to me. It has zero end shake and locks up as tight as a drum.

Recently, I decided to have it thoroughly cleaned and lubed inside, as well as have an action job done by someone I trust, who was the departmental armorer for my agency, since I plan to carry it for defense when I'm not carrying my Ruger Speed-Six stainless in .38 special. I told a friend who is a retired SWAT member, and he suggested I get the barrel forcing cone reamed, as well as cylinder chambers polished at the same time. I said I did not think this was necessary, as I'm not looking for a tack driver, and since I have never fired the gun, I am not aware of any spitting lead issues or accuracy problems. I said I can always have this done in the future if necessary.

Is it correct to assume that the vast majority of duty revolvers never get forcing cones reamed? I am thinking this should not be done if the gun is accurate and is not spitting lead. I carried a Model 10 heavy barrel and later a Model 64 during my 10 years in patrol. I seriously doubt the barrel forcing cones were reamed after they arrived from the factory. I could be wrong, but I doubt it.

Opinions and knowledge appreciated.

Sounds like you're looking for solutions to problems that may not exist.

Shoot the firearm and shoot it some more, see how it shoots and groups.

If you can hit a B-27 target with it from 3-21 feet your defensive firearm is actually ready to go.

Then you can try some point shooting from the waist height.

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NRA Pistol/Rifle Inst. RSO

Welcome! I seriously doubt the suggested modifications are needed, and I have never heard of altering the forcing cone in this manner before, ever. Some .22 revolver chambers have difficult extraction of empties, and I have heard of polishing them to help prevent this, but not on a center fire revolver.

Enjoy your model 10, it sounds as though you've earned it!

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Alan
SWCA 2023, SWHF 220

some have heavy striations and need cleaning up. The problem comes up when the forcing cone is already oversized. The only real way to correct the problem is to set the barrel back and clean up and polish the forcing cone. A good gunsmith job.

If the forcing cone is slightly undersized, (gauges from Brownells) it can be carefully cleaned up and polished. Tools from Brownells.

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the world is round everywhere

What type bullets do you intend to shoot the most thru it?

If you are shooting jacketed through it, probably the stock angle is best.

If you are shooting lead through it, re cutting the FC might be justified.

Shoot it before doing any major metal work....I do not think that this is a needed modification however.

Randy

Recutting the forcing cone to 11 degrees is was a common and worthwhile modification to revolvers which shoot a heavy diet of cast bullets. It is not an expensive procedure. However, for a gun which is carried and shot with a limited number of cast bullet reloads, it would seem unnecessary. If you have no issues with ejection of empty cases, polishing the charge holes would seem an exercise in futility & wasted $'s. Chamfering the charge holes to facilitate quicker reloads in a carry gun is a different issue entirely.

Bruce

Nothing you have said suggests that it is "broke". The only problems I have ever run into with forcing cones are severe erosion from .357/125s or people "improving" them.

Unless the gun starts spitting or leads a lot in that area--shoot it and enjoy it.

I have owned a few Colt SAA's that I reamed the forcing cone out to 11 degrees - - - - truth be told I did not really notice any difference. I was shooting hard cast lead and if that's what you are shooting I would not bother. Soft swagged bullets might be another story.

Chief38