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  #1  
Old 12-24-2012, 03:54 PM
exnodak exnodak is offline
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I have just finished installing a Wolff mainspring in my Model 19-5. I proceeded with extreme caution, using all the internet sources of info that I could find in order not to mess something up. I was successful in getting the side plate off by tapping on the grip frame, and not prying anything. It was very closely fitted, and took a lot of patient tapping before it popped loose.
Now my problem is getting it back on. I have tried several times, making sure that the little tab on the plate is in place, and trying to get it to settle on by tapping the grip frame again, using very light thumb pressure to hold it in place. The plate will go about halfway home, and I have really been tapping a long time with a wooden hammer handle. Wow - those tolerances are tight! Insanity is defined as doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. Am I at that point? Are there any other methods of getting the plate back on that has worked for you?
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:19 PM
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saemetric saemetric is offline
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Did you put the hammer block in correctly
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:58 PM
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Did you put the hammer block in correctly
My thoughts exactly, ya need to line it up with the groove in the side plate.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:08 PM
PERAZZI PERAZZI is offline
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yes, hammer block, you need to slide the sideplate along the hammer block till the tab fits the frame. gentle pressure should then finish the job.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:35 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
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Originally Posted by exnodak View Post
I have just finished installing a Wolff mainspring in my Model 19-5. I proceeded with extreme caution, using all the internet sources of info that I could find in order not to mess something up. I was successful in getting the side plate off by tapping on the grip frame, and not prying anything. It was very closely fitted, and took a lot of patient tapping before it popped loose.
Now my problem is getting it back on. I have tried several times, making sure that the little tab on the plate is in place, and trying to get it to settle on by tapping the grip frame again, using very light thumb pressure to hold it in place. The plate will go about halfway home, and I have really been tapping a long time with a wooden hammer handle. Wow - those tolerances are tight! Insanity is defined as doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result. Am I at that point? Are there any other methods of getting the plate back on that has worked for you?
I also vote for the hammer block being out of place. Put it over the rebound pin and slide it so it is in its "up" position and then carefully put the sideplate back on by slipping the upper tab under the frame first. I usually do not tap the grip frame when reinstalling the side plate, although others may disagree. I get it started with thumb pressure making sure everything is in place, then I carefully tap, using a non-marring plastic type mallet around the edges and it should go right in place. Very light taps. Nothing should require serious force. If it does, something isn't lined up correctly. Good luck!

Last edited by shawn mccarver; 12-24-2012 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:40 PM
jepp2 jepp2 is offline
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In addition to the hammer block (and it needs to be slid up on the rebound slide pin) make sure you start the top of the side plate along with the front by the yoke screw both at the same time. Don't do one before the other.

I have encountered a few that were fit extremely tight by the factory, but even those you could press it at least 75% of the way home with just thumb pressure. Don't use anything else. Stop beating on it with your hammer handle!!!
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Old 12-24-2012, 06:40 PM
socal s&w socal s&w is offline
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Yup, hammer block.

shawn mccarver has it just about right, but he left out that you gotta hold your tongue to the right just a little bit and hold it with your canine teeth for it to go in properly.
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:17 PM
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I must not be holding my tongue correctly, because I have followed all of the advice as I understand it, and the dang side plate is still out of place on the rear by about .0060".
I guess I will take it off and try again. Thanks to all who have tried to help.
Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:57 PM
VM VM is offline
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I must not be holding my tongue correctly, because I have followed all of the advice as I understand it, and the dang side plate is still out of place on the rear by about .0060".
I guess I will take it off and try again. Thanks to all who have tried to help.
Merry Christmas!
sent you a PM to call me
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Old 12-24-2012, 09:59 PM
shawn mccarver shawn mccarver is offline
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Here is a You Tube video showing installation of the side plate on a Model 10.

SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 PART 2 - YouTube

Start watching at the beginning and there are some good shots of how the parts, including the hammer block, fit together. I believe the guy in the video refers to the hammer block as the "safety bar" or something like that. There are some inaccuracies in this video, so I do not necessarily recommend it for ANY other purpose than to show you the layout of the parts and how to replace the sideplate. The revolver shown has been taken apart quite a bit, which accounts for the relative ease of fully seating the re-installed sideplate. Again, it should not take anything beyond thumbs and MAYBE a very small amount of light tapping to finally seat it. I wish to stress - NO TAPPING unless you need to and only with a NON-MARRING plastic type mallet and do not use excessive force.

Good luck.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:52 PM
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OP:

2 days ago I was struggling much the same as you. Kuhnhausen manual, a Miculek DVD, some youtube reviews, and careful study of what I was doing vs what I thought I was doing.

In my case



the part labeled "5304 "(sorry it's so blurry) where it fits on was out of place on the wrong pin on the return block as indicated above. It was a bit tricky.

Easy does it and suddenly it all falls together.

Good luck.
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Last edited by m657; 12-24-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 08:22 AM
kenjen kenjen is offline
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i also had this problem with a mod.66 i have, after getting the side plate off and having a very hard time getting it back on i noticed that there were a couple of defects-flaws in the frame casting. i saw rub marks on the side plate that matched up with them. a little time with some emery cloth cleaned up the defects and althrough still tight it is much better.
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Old 12-25-2012, 10:53 AM
scooter123 scooter123 is offline
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The first time I installed a side plate on an S&W it took me well over an hour to get it right. Use Shawn's instructions as your primary guide with the addition that I've found it best to start at the tab and the front yoke screw as Jepp2 has suggested. This really does work once you "get" the trick of positioning the hammer block correctly so that the slot is engaged on the pin mounted on the rebound slide and slid as far in the "up" direction as the slot will allow. Once all this has been done the slide plate will nest properly with simple thumb pressure.

However, they are fitted tightly enough on some revolvers that you will have to draw them home with the screws. Once you have the sideplate about 80-90% all the way home you are perfectly safe to draw in the rest of the way home using the screw, just make sure you work gradually all the way around the screw pattern using a back and forth technique.

PS; after 3 or 4 times doing this all the stars lined up and the bell went off and now I can put a side plate in place in about 15 seconds without any fumbling at all. Point is, it's only difficult the first few times you do it and once you "get it" it becomes a piece of cake.
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Old 12-25-2012, 11:28 AM
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You might try installing the sideplate with the hammer block removed for practice. That hammer block just need move a whisker and it will prevent the sideplate from seating. Its also important to keep the sideplate as parallel to the frame as possible while installing. Let us know how you do.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:08 PM
exnodak exnodak is offline
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Success!
I got the tight little guy on this morning.
Thanks to all who so kindly gave me good advice. I bought the gun from a private party quite a while ago. I was getting light hammer strikes and FTF with my reloads, using CCI primers. Switched to Winchester primers, and no improvement. I installed the Wolff spring to see if that would be an inexpensive fix. After removing the sideplate, I noticed some very slight damage on the edges of both the plate and the frame. I believe that it may have removed by a previous owner and possibly a light mainspring installed at that time.
Anyway, I am anxious to get to range for a test.
Again - thanks to all - much appreciated.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exnodak View Post
Success!
I got the tight little guy on this morning.
Thanks to all who so kindly gave me good advice. I bought the gun from a private party quite a while ago. I was getting light hammer strikes and FTF with my reloads, using CCI primers. Switched to Winchester primers, and no improvement. I installed the Wolff spring to see if that would be an inexpensive fix. After removing the sideplate, I noticed some very slight damage on the edges of both the plate and the frame. I believe that it may have removed by a previous owner and possibly a light mainspring installed at that time.
Anyway, I am anxious to get to range for a test.
Again - thanks to all - much appreciated.
That's great, congratulations, hope the mainspring takes care if your problem. Looking forward to the range report.
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Old 12-25-2012, 03:02 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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If you still experience light hammer strikes, the mainspring strain screw may have shortened.
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  #18  
Old 12-27-2012, 10:33 PM
PERAZZI PERAZZI is offline
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Ex, I'd suggest going with Federal primers. they'll ignite every time..
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