I have several 3rd generation SS pistols and SS revolvers that have ware spots on their dull finish. Can the dull finish be restored with a bead blaster?

Yes, that is how they get that finish from the factory. I do beadblasting and there is a specific size bead to use on these guns to replicate the factory finish. Brownell's sells these beads.

Don't laugh, but for small rub spots on blasted areas, I have laid a piece of sandpaper on the spot and tapped it with a small plastic hammer.
Took a couple tries to find the right grit, but it actually worked pretty well.

__________________
-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

Take a look at this thread. They talk a bit about factory vs home refinish.

Post #12 by 10mm Sonny shows some pretty nice work with a Green Scotch Brite pad.
"Send it back to S&W"

Dave

Be aware:
If you bead blast it, make absolutely certain the blaster is either cleaned out and filled with new media, OR make certain the blaster is one that's used to blast ONLY stainless steel.

If the blaster is used to blast carbon steel, tiny particles of carbon steel will be embedded into the stainless and will rust later, ruining the surface.
I once had a customer who blasted an aluminum S&W auto frame in a garage blaster and he was astounded when his aluminum frame started rusting.

I recommend NOT just taking someones word that their blaster hasn't been used for carbon steel.

I have also head of alot of success with the scotch brite method and a little oil.

Thanks for the response. I tried the scoth brite (fine green) with oil and it worked great.

In regards to the oil for the job, did you use gun oil? Specific brand type?

I borrowed from my machine shop days experiences. I have used an ultra fine sandpaper - 600 or higher - and Cool Tool cutting oil. SLOWLY I made sure I followed the direction of part: left or right back & forth, etc. Never circular. I achieved a cool looking sheen. Not shiny or bright, but, similar to an aluminum gloss. Good luck. The end result is worth the effort.

D