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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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  #1  
Old 02-05-2013, 01:13 PM
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Hammer and Trigger,( v model ) where case hardened. But alass some one blued them. can the bluing be buffed out? Also need a extractor pin (.38 S&W).
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Old 02-05-2013, 01:41 PM
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These parts can be re-case hardened after the bluing is removed, or you can probably find replacement parts that will likely drop in (possibly cheaper than refinishing the old parts).
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:49 PM
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Thank You Alan. Where is a good place to find parts. I need a hammer, trigger, extracter rod and a side plate. ( some one buffed the s&w logo )

thank you
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Old 02-05-2013, 02:56 PM
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Try Numrich Gun Parts. I will warn you a side plate is not a drop in, it has to be fitted, and only a real expert can fit one. Also, put an add in the Forum "Wanted to buy" section. Good luck.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:20 PM
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I refinished a Ruger BH some years ago and stripped the bluing with white vinegar.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:32 PM
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I've had some good results with Birchwwod Casey blue and rust remover.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/778...er-3-oz-liquid

Last edited by snubbyfan; 02-05-2013 at 04:35 PM.
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:36 PM
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Will have to consider the vinegar. And I went to Numrich, and found all I need
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H Richard View Post
Try Numrich Gun Parts. I will warn you a side plate is not a drop in, it has to be fitted, and only a real expert can fit one. Also, put an add in the Forum "Wanted to buy" section. Good luck.
Would this be Capt. Richard??
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Old 02-05-2013, 04:42 PM
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Another vote for the Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover. If it doesn't work it only set you back a few dollars.
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Old 02-05-2013, 06:26 PM
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Anything w/ a very weak acid in it will strip bluing.
Vinegar (acidic acid) works well.

'Naval Jelly' has phosphoric acid in it to do the job and it won't go further than removing the blue. It leaves the steel a gray somewhat motteled color but it cleans right up with scotchbrite or even steel wool.

Most of the commercial bluing removers use phosphoric acid.


Even common Cola soft drinks have the phosphoric acid in them and that's why they will ruin a blued surface if spilled on it. You can use it to that advantage if you really want to, just as you can use ketchup with it's acidic acid content.

I've used Hydrochloric acid (muriadic acid) a very weak soln of about 2 tbs per gallon of water at room temp to strip blueing for years.
It'll remove hot salt blue in about 5 to 15 minutes. Rust blue takes longer. I also use it to remove heat scale from parts but they sit in it for several hours.
The weak soln allows it to work w/o pitting the steel.,,just don't forget about the parts in there over the weekend..
Don't try it with stronger solutions or by heating it or the parts. You'll have nothing but a pitted mess of gun parts on your hands.

Lately I have been using Evapo-Rust. I really like this stuff.
It's not an acid and is entirely safe to use.
If you're going to buy any product to do rust removal,,I'd recommend this stuff over anything else.
Evapo-Rust rust remover description page

Never any worry that the steel under the rust will be attacked by the rust remover chemical. Bluing is a form of rust after all.
I bought it at Home Depot, but many places do not seem to carry it.

My .02
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:56 PM
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Good news. Used Naval Jelly, worked out great. Took that purple stuff right off. I don't think the hammer and trigger where not case hardened. Could be case, this is a U K lend lease. v52*****
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