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02-24-2013, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Problem with miss-fires - off center strikes
I have recently purchased a used 586 and am experiencing several "missfires" I note that the firing pin strike seems consistantly slightly off center to the right. Just back from the range again so I am going to change out the hammer and hammer nose to the "bobbed" hammer that came with the gun and try again. Any suggestions on solutions would be appreciated. I am a new member here as of yesterday.
Ray
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02-24-2013, 05:54 PM
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Welcome to the Forum.
First, check and make sure that the strain screw in the front strap is tightened all of the way down. That is usually the problem. It is not uncommon for the firing pin to strike the primer off center.
Did you fire the M586 sucessfully with the bobbed hammer? Your replcement hammer may be binding a bit.
Did it misfire in single action, double action, or both?
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02-24-2013, 05:57 PM
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I'd check the timing before I changed out the hammer. Look down the barrel and see if the cylinder is lining up right when it is locked with the hammer all the way back. You should not see any of the cylinder edge showing if it is perfectly concentric and centered. Was it working OK with the bobbed hammer? Does it spit lead when you shoot?
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02-26-2013, 09:01 AM
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I bought a M&P cause I couldn't believe how sweet the trigger was. Got it home and it fired half the time or less. As said, check the screw on the front of the grip, which tensions the main spring. I ended up getting a new main spring. I still need to install rebound spring, cause I think that is too light too.
Wether mine was from old age, 1956, or botched trigger job, dunno.
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02-26-2013, 10:13 AM
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New firing pin and mainspring
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02-26-2013, 11:23 AM
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First, indeed, check the strain screw for tight. Check for "endshake" cylinder and yoke. Excessive endshake will cause the cylinder to move forward and rearward absorbing hammer energy causing light indent misfires. Next, does it happen during double action shooting only? If it does than its called "hammer hits rebound". This is caused because you are "stageing" the trigger. Another words your using your trigger finger as a trigger stop against the frame. This allows you to take up most of the heavy DA trigger pull stopping just before the hammer falls, re-aquire your sights, then squeeze and fire. The problem is that you are restricting the rearward movement of the rebound and the front of the hammer seat on the rebound hits the rear of the rebound seat on the hammer. Confused yet? To correct: two strokes off the front of the hammer seat on the rebound. Try it to see if it corrects it. If not two more strokes with a file. If you still not sure contact me before you pick up a file. [email protected]
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02-26-2013, 11:45 AM
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See Les45's comments about misalignment of the cylinder to barrel (timing). Additional checks w/revolver unloaded:
1) slowly cock the hammer (single action) and observe whether or not the cylinder stop engages the detent on the cylinder.
2) rapidly cock the hammer (single action) and observe whether or not the cylinder stop engages the detent on the cylinder.
3) rapidly squeeze the trigger (double action) and observe whether or not the cylinder stop engages the detent on the cylinder.
If the stop does not engage the detent on the cylinder you have a timing issue. Could be the hand is worn or bent, possible weak stop spring or wear on the cylinder stop.
Another check is to look for "spitting lead" already mentioned. Hold a piece of paper up aligned with the barrel/cylinder and squeeze of a shot or two. If you see traces of lead or minute holes in the paper then you are "spitting lead". Could also be an indicator of a timing issue.
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02-26-2013, 05:26 PM
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US Veteran Absent Comrade
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If gun locks up tight in battery,
it should fire if the firing pin shows .010 off center.
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